This is an excellent face climb between "Pygmy" and "Blue Collar Ape." Start using the arete and crack passing first bolt to a large ramp. Being careful, clip the second bolt around the corner where the face climbing begins. Five bolts total to shunts shared by Blue Collar Ape.
Lower Jungle between "Blue Collar Ape" & "Hey, Hey, We're the Monkeys
Quick draws to shuts.
BETA PHOTO: Homo Cragus
BETA PHOTO: Homo Cragus goes up, to the left of the open book ...
BETA PHOTO: Go far right at the top and use your right hand on...
|By Roy Suggett|
Oct 11, 2010
After climbing this fun route, use the top rope to check out a possible new route just to the right.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The location of the last bolt makes it hard to decide how to finish. I traversed left into the crack finish of Blue Collar Ape, my partner went right to the arete and followed it to the top. Either way, except a bit of looseness. The face moves down low are excellent and getting out on the face technical and spicy.
If you're into that kind of foolery you can do a direct start a few feet right of the bolt line in a tips crack. Green C3 and thuggy moves will get you on the ramp. Beware of the prickly stuff.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
hmmm, maybe I was tired at this point but I found the crux around the 2nd bolt to be pretty hard for a 10a. Good climbing though - take care clipping the first bolt (awkward) and 2nd bolt (big fall potential).
|By travis timm|
From: Tropic, Utah
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Super cool rout with great bolt placements and good rock. The crimpy section between the second and fourth bolt is really balancey and the holds are pretty small. Maybe I'm just not that good on crimps but i felt it was pretty stout for a 10a.