Homo Cragus 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Phyllis Suggett |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | May through October |
| Submitted By: | Roy Suggett on Jul 9, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Homo Cragus
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Description This is an excellent face climb between "Pygmy" and "Blue Collar Ape." Start using the arete and crack passing first bolt to a large ramp. Being careful, clip the second bolt around the corner where the face climbing begins. Five bolts total to shunts shared by Blue Collar Ape.
Location Lower Jungle between "Pygmy" (farthest right climb) and "Blue Collar Ape."
Protection Quick draws to shuts.
BETA PHOTO: Homo Cragus goes up, to the left of the open book ...
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BETA PHOTO: The northeast face moves make the route
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BETA PHOTO: Go far right at the top and use your right hand on...
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By Roy Suggett
Oct 11, 2010
| After climbing this fun route, use the top rope to check out a possible new route just to the right. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| The location of the last bolt makes it hard to decide how to finish. I traversed left into the crack finish of Blue Collar Ape, my partner went right to the arete and followed it to the top. Either way, except a bit of looseness. The face moves down low are excellent and getting out on the face technical and spicy.
If you're into that kind of foolery you can do a direct start a few feet right of the bolt line in a tips crack. Green C3 and thuggy moves will get you on the ramp. Beware of the prickly stuff. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| hmmm, maybe I was tired at this point but I found the crux around the 2nd bolt to be pretty hard for a 10a. Good climbing though - take care clipping the first bolt (awkward) and 2nd bolt (big fall potential). |
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