Homeworld 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Sean Jones, Robbie Borchard, 2005 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 27, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Homeworld topo that I created.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is an excellent climb up a large chunk of rock. It has several interesting pitches with a lot of variety. It is mostly well protected, but it's no sport climb, with a few sporty sections. Getting to the first bolt on pitch 5 is heads up with ankle breaker potential. The sixth pitch is stellar, one of the best pitches at P-Line. There are several variations one can do for pitch one, other than the original described here.
P1 (10c/d) Horizontal Cracks Pitch . Climb past several horizontal cracks then up thin face move to a ledge. Clip anchor, jog left then back right and up to a bolt leading to a nice splitter finger crack to a bolted belay/rap station.
P2 (5.10 move) In Your Face Traverse Pitch. This short pitch is mostly a class 2 traverse to get to pitch 3. You will be surprised by what appears to be a short 4th class section. from P1 anchor traverse 100' right to a 2 bolt belay.
P3 (10a) The Shiny Path of Hope Pitch. From the belay, face climb to and up a vertical crack. Then follow the shiny path of hope(several bolts) up to another bolted belay/rap
station.
P4 (5.9) Scary Giant Flake Pitch. Climb up to the left side of a large pillar following it to a nice ledge w/a bolted belay/rap station.
P5 (10b) Black Bolt of Death Pitch. From the top of the pillar traverse left to a bolt(don't fall here). Continue left to another bolt. Climb up and right to a black bolt then up to a bolted belay/rap station below a large flake.
P6 (11a) Undercling Pitch. This pitch is stellar. Bust out several thin friction moves working left and up to the large flake. undercling out right to the end of the flake then follow a few well spaced bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station.
P7 (10a) Backwards SSS Pitch. From pitch 6 belay, move up and right passing a couple of bolts. Then right to another bolt. Continue right to a flake bulge. Pull through the bulge, then follow bolts back left to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. Watch the rope drag on this pitch.
P8 easy to the top
Can rap the route w/1 60m rope. At the top of p3 swing climbers left to an alternate rap station.
- There are several options/routes to start on for pitch one.
Location A bit left and uphill of Dangling Chads and just right of Flying in the Mountains.
Protection Pro to a #4 Camalot, draws and several shoulder length runners.
BETA PHOTO: Homeworld topo by Mark
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.10d PG13
| Good route. Not quite as good as Flying in the Mountains, but it does have several excellent pitches.
The posted topo is a bit off (see below). Note: all of my comments below refer to pitch numbers as listed on the topo.
While most sources of info tell you not to fall moving left on pitch 6 (the 5.10R section), I actually thought that liebacking the 5.9 flake on pitch 5 was far more dangerous. You can't protect the last 10-15 feet of steep liebacking before the angle eases off, and if you fell, you would get pretty messed up (there are ledges below that would surely break your legs).
That said, this is super fun route. There are several sections that are probably 5.10d/11a, but they are well protected with either good gear (the undercling on pitch 7) or with fairly tight bolt placements (the face climbing after the undercling on pitch 7).
I believe that the topo that is posted (and the route description) are a bit off on pitch 7. Both the topo and the description describe climbing past two bolts to a two bolt anchor after exiting the undercling section. You actually step right to a bolt after the undercling and then climb past 3 more bolts to the two bolt anchor (4 pro bolts total); the last two clips climb through a section of excellent rock with solid 5.10+ friction and smedging. Also, I agree with Jeff that that pitch 8 (pitch 7 in Jeff's description) is only about 5.9/10a....there definitely is no 5.10+ climbing up there. |
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