Alright here's what I did. I have 4 Corner Braces 4", 4- 2" bolts (with washers and nuts) to attach the 4 corner braces to the "J-Bar" of the Iron Gym Pull Up Bar, one up and one down on each bar (after I removed the foam on the handle and rubber ends). I cut a 2"x12" piece of wood 30" and spray painted it with Black Lacquer. The "J-Bar" pipe is so thin you can use any drill bit big enough to fit the bolt through the corner braces (make sure the bolts don't wiggle back and forth because that's what keeps the board steady, also to make it hold I put Super Glue on the threads of the bolt). When attaching the corner braces to the J-bar make sure the edge of the brace lines up with the end of the bar so the wood lies flat. I attached the wood through the corner braces with 8- 1.5" Wood Screws. MAKE SURE EVERY DRILL HOLE IS LEVEL! All this cost around $40 compared to $130 plus shipping of $20 and only took 20mins.

I have yet to receive my Revolution Grillito board but just from hanging on the wood the board is steady and does not flex. It only comes down a little bit (~2cm) but that’s because of the foam on the cross beam. When I first start hanging on the board I hear a creaking noise. I don’t know where it was coming from but the wood is not splitting and the door frame seems fine.

If anyone wants pictures tell me and I will post them. If anyone wants to know how the Grillito is I will tell you what I think.

-Just so you know they say the weight limit on the iron gym pull up bar is 300 lbs.

pictures? also, what is the "j-bar"?

post some pics! I've been thinking of doing this too.

I have one of the Factory Made Blank Slates and I love that! It is rock solid (no pun intended! lol) and works like a charm (see pics).
I train on my 2 days per week and love it!

Works perfectly since I rent - even tho my landlord said he didn't mind if I screwed my Metolius traning board directing into the studs (too bad I found THAT out 3 mos too late! LOL).

But in any-case - they are quality made and work exactly as advertised!

Training Board set up Submitted By: NYClimber on Jul 11, 2012

There was another very similar thread about 2-3 months ago, describing a few folks experiences with home made blank slate contraptions. Can't find it right off hand, but those interested in DIYing it should check that info out to avoid some possible pitfalls. I like the idea of the Blank Slate...I used a similar idea years back by just screwing a T-nutted 2x10 above an 8 foot wide doorway. I had a Simulator in the middle and around 20 holds surrounding it to play with. Eventually I 2x10ed the sides and underneath the doorway to have my own mini gym.

I call the bar that hooks around to the top of the door frame the "j-bar".

-I took the pull up bar to Home Depot and walked around talking to employees about the best way to connect the board. We talked about lag shield anchors (5/8" x 3") with lag screws (1/2" x 4") and concrete sleeve bolts.

At the end I decided that this (corner braces) would be the easiest and most secure way because there would be more surface area connecting the board.

Thanks to Tim F. for helping me out. Here is the original page I first started looking at, but it was a little confusing to me so I broke every step down as much a possible.

www.mountainproject.com/v/training-blankslate-/107408293

I wanted to get the Corner Braces perfectly straight up and down but my drill holes through the "J-bar" were off center. Doesn't seem to effect anything. Submitted By: blokedals on Jul 11, 2012

Homemade Blank Slate Submitted By: blokedals on Jul 11, 2012

Corner braces attached to "j-bar" Submitted By: blokedals on Jul 11, 2012

I would consider adding a gusset or brace to those L brackets. Plumber's tape in tension would probably do the trick. I'd imagine that, depending on your weight, there's a reasonable chance they'll start to bend without some sort of support.

Also, replacing those carriage bolts with standard hex bolts and washers in the long run will reduce the chance of stress concentrations in the L brackets causing failure.

Otherwise, it looks like a pretty solid setup. I've been thinking about throwing one together myself.

Eamon

Just curious but about how much did the whole setup cost? It is a great idea and the pictures definitely help.
J

You could consider using shelf brackets (like these) instead of lower pair angle braces. The bar connecting the two legs of the bracket might provide additional stability.

BTW, here's the other thread discussing this.

I wanted to update everybody.

The board still creaks when I get on and move around. But everything is still in place (J bars, bolts, wood screws, hangboard).

I use it almost everyday and have realized the the foam on the cross beams were no longer pressing against the door frame and the metal bar and the foam aftermath was pressed into the frame leaving back marks and no paint.
SO I turned the foam around so the fresh side would be touching the frame and I duck taped it a good bit.

It seems to be doing fine.

you'll soon burn through that foam too. Use a shop towel and you'll be fine.

mine is digging into the molding trim around my door way. but that is probably cause i do lunges and bump like dyno moves. wish i would have used Javier's idea

Hello Mountain Project Community-

Bringing this thread back! Although I've been out of climbing for a little...I was looking to get a simple pull up bar to maintain my upper body strength. Started doing some research online and stumbled on the Blank Slate that many of you have been talking about. I too noticed it's cost and was wondering about "homemade" options that could use something like Iron Gym as a base and then include a Metolious Project Board, Metolious Rock Rings or some other type of hangboards and holds.

What solutions have you all found/crafted?

Thanks,
Chris

Chris,
The following is the evolution of my garage hangboard.
Find a good piece of lumber, in my case I used a piece of glue-lam from a jobsite dumpster. I then bought a tube of PL-400 construction adhesive, some hardware, and gathered some shitty holds found strewn about the base of a local crag.
Rinse the dirt from said holds and board and place them about the board in a configuration suited to your strenghts/weaknesses.
Once you are happy with the arrangement the fun begins.
Apply generous amounts of adhesive to the backs of each clean and dry hold and place them on the clean and dry board.
Wait 48 hrs for the adhesive to fully cure. There will be softer spots where the glue is thickest around the edges of the stones and in voids on the rocks chosen.
I recommend using a pilot bit to pre-drill the holes for the eyelet lag screws to avoid splitting the wood when applying a hanger system.
For about $25 I came up with this

Shelf Road Simulator Submitted By: Tom-o Erectus on Apr 14, 2013

Backside Holds Submitted By: Tom-o Erectus on Apr 14, 2013

Underside looking up Submitted By: Tom-o Erectus on Apr 14, 2013

Rebels on board Submitted By: Tom-o Erectus on Apr 14, 2013

Good idea Tom, I have been wanting to incorporate real rock but didn't know how to start. I have extra room so I think I will attach a few crimps.

Hey Chris, just wanted to update you. Everything still works with my set up. But like what was said above, make sure you do what Javier said and wrap shop towels (small towels) around the bars that hit the frame, so they don't leave marks. The main cost in this setup is the Iron Gym which I got used at a thrift store. All and all it cost less than $50 without the hangboard.

Grillito Hangboard (don't really like it,wish I went with Slopeymon) Submitted By: blokedals on Apr 15, 2013

Tom and blokedals, thanks for the recommendations! I will look into it!

Blokedals, so the step by step instructions above are still what you would recommend?

Thanks,
Chris

Yes