Part of a new area in the proximity of Big Chief, this wall is located on Sawtooth Ridge, which is on the other side of the valley from Big Chief. You can actually see the climbing on Sawtooth Ridge from the North Pass going out of Big Chief looking away from Highway 89.
This sport rock has climbing ranging from 5.10c to .11c, on rock that is of varied degrees of overhung and less than vertical. Currently, only 4 bolted routes exist, and all four routes are very high quality. There is the potential for a couple more routes, though they may not be as high quality as the first four. Most of the routes are quite runout for the first (easier) halves of the climbing, so bringing a couple of medium sized gear is a wise idea.
All routes lower off the top anchors.
This rock gets HOT in the afternoons, as it looks almost directly west.
Approach time: 20 minutes.
Drive in on Forest Road number 6 as though you were going to Big Chief. Park about 5 miles into the drive in a clearing on the left (a logged out area actually). You can see the cliffs looking across the Valley from the lot.
Walk down one of several light trails that get you to the intermittent creek, which is usually low enough to cross. Pickup a thin trail that heads to the left side of the cliff, which is lightly in view through the trees.
Head up the trail following the Cairns on rocks to the base of the Sawtooth Ridge climbing area. Homeland Security Wall is right of where the trail hits the rock about 100 feet.
For the left two routes, head right along the cliff band up to the climbs which are past the two bolted routes of the Tower of Power about 35 more feet.
For the right two routes, tt is tempting to try and skirt your way along the base of the cliff, past the Tower of Power and the other 2 bolted routes on Homeland Security Wall, but the best bet is to take the lower trail going right which hits the wall again in about 200 feet. At this point, head left and the 2 rightside bolted routes of the Homeland Security wall are about 25 feet uphill.
There us one start for the two rightmost climbs, Exit Strategy and Pre-Emptive Strike (5.10c) and the first 2 bolts are shared between the routes. The first bolt protects the intitial sequence, which is about 5.10a, and very fun. Run out about 20 feet to a large flake system where gear is optional. Matle the flake in a fun 5.8 move, and clip your final easy bolting stance. Exit Strategy diverges from Pre-Emptive Strike here by moving onto the left section of the bolts. 4 really rough bolts later...[more]Browse More Classics in CA