|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||R. & J. Rossiter, 1987|
|Fixed Hardware:||2 Lead Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Feb 27, 2002|
|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
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|Show which comments —
By Shane Z
Jun 19, 2006
I made the mistake of trying to climb directly above the flake to the bolt, which is a difficult series of moves with a sketchy cam placement in the flake. Apparently, as mentioned by Tony, the route goes left at the flake and then to the ledge. I obviously missed this and went straight for the bolt (bad idea). The flake is strong but I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall. Going for the bolt directly from the flake is sketchy as hell, so I climbed around it.
The first pitch is definitely doable, although as mentioned, I wouldn't push your limits here (I'm a 5.10 leader and this was a thinker). The gear is good, just be certain to be quick about placing it. Aliens, Aliens, Aliens, and a #3 BD stopper.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 20, 2009
|You might be in trouble if you are under 6ft on P2. There is a reach to the first bolt and to the solution jug. After the crux, it is possible to head right instead of left. It looked more secure and had less lichen.|
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 22, 2009
|Wew went up and did this again on Sunday. I was able to protect the first pitch with small stoppers, and RP's. The large flake just before the 1st pitch crux is now loose, and will change the beta when it cuts loose. Still a nice route. 2nd pitch did not seem as tough as it was 15-years ago...|
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 6, 2011
|I didn't realize this was two pitches. We always just do it in one pitch with the use of some runners. My brother is a little fella, about 5'8" with shoes on, and never had an issue with the crux. It's just a more committing move for the wee person, but you're on top rope because of a well placed bolt. This is a nice technical climb. I brought a strong gym climber here once and it was like V4 for him.|
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 9, 2014
|Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this.|
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|Overall, good route with two 10+ to 11- cruxes and some questionable rock that should be treated with care. Red or yellow ballnuts or small nuts may be helpful on the first pitch. One can stand on the questionably attached flake with questionably solid gear placed behind it and tiptoe over to the bolt on fingertip underclings.|