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Holy Wall 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Burns, Fehlau
Season: year round
Page Views: 2,695
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Leading up Holy Wall in January 2007. Look at all ...

Description 

An extremely pocketed and chalked-up face route with thin feet past the first bolt and nice, steep climbing above. Bolt line moves right-ish but the route can be climbed left of the bolt line at about the same grade.
Almost too many pockets to choose from!

Location 

The very obvious pocketed route with tons of chalked up holds. Shown as route number 12 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection 

5 bolts to chain anchors. Note there are two sets of anchors for this climb--one can be accessed from the top for TRing and the other, lower chains, are used when leading.


Photos of Holy Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marco Finishes
Marco Finishes
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody chalking up before sending the rest of Holy W...
Cody chalking up before sending the rest of Holy W...
Rock Climbing Photo: The top part of the route.
BETA PHOTO: The top part of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Marco, getting ready to climb Holy Wall for the fi...
Marco, getting ready to climb Holy Wall for the fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arno Ilgner Sampling the pockets.
Arno Ilgner Sampling the pockets.

Comments on Holy Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 4, 2007

this is a really fun warmup! However, it sees a lot of traffic, and feels really slick and greasy, so it feels insecure for the grade.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is one of those routes that gets dramatically easier the more you climb it. So many pockets--all of which are massively chalked up--make it a challenging onsight. An excellent route though!
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Slightly easier if you use the crack to the left at the first crux (2nd to 3rd bolt), or a foot on the face left of that crack. One book says this reduces the rating to 5.9, though I think it's still probably 5.10- overall considering the pump at the sequency upper crux.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 29, 2010

Earlier this summer someone used chalk to put a huge "X" above the fourth bolt. We checked it out last night. The bolt itself is fine but the hanger was an old thin SMC hanger. I replaced the hanger last night with a SS Pagan hanger. I tried hard to remove the chalk "X" but it's still visible. If you have a brush with you the next time you're on this route, please brush away that "X".
By Luke Hetrick
From: Los Alamos
Apr 28, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Lead this climb for the first time the other day and found it to be pretty fun. As mentioned in the other comments, although there is an abundance of hand holds, the feet is a bit more scarce after the first bolt and the hands feel worse than they really are. Best part of the climb was that the route line is generous meaning that you can ascend it left or right of the bolts. Was entertaining to climb it twice and realize that I took almost completely different routes up the same climb.

Jason Hundhausen mentioned it gets easier the more you climb it. This is very true as the abundance of hand holds threw me off when I lead it but when I TR it later, the climb was much easier as I knew where the better holds were.

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