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Holy Smoke 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Aidan Maguire, 2000
Page Views: 737
Submitted By: snowhazed on Oct 25, 2008
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Description 

Per ST- "Sustained, balancy, and powerful". Unique and improbable movement. 5.11 climbing at third bolt. Crux move at fourth bolt requires dynamic movement to a gaston finger lock in horizontal roof crack. 5.10 to the chains.


Location 

Starts off big shelf to the left of Steppin' Stone. Goes through obvious bulge and roof combo. Finishes on same anchor as Steppin' Stone.


Protection 

6 bolts with optional .6-1" gear in roof crack. Can clip first bolt by going high on starting shelf- then can continue from there of step back down to start climbing directly beneath the bolt.



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By Aidan Maguire
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Route is rated 11d and depends a bit on reach at crux. Option gear is not optional unless very bold and up to 1.5 inch