Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
Ginger Bread T 
Holy Smoke S 
Jugs Revisited T 
Lesbian Love S 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone T 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 

Holy Smoke 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Aidan Maguire, 2000
Page Views: 876
Submitted By: snowhazed on Oct 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Per ST- "Sustained, balancy, and powerful". Unique and improbable movement. 5.11 climbing at third bolt. Crux move at fourth bolt requires dynamic movement to a gaston finger lock in horizontal roof crack. 5.10 to the chains.

Location 

Starts off big shelf to the left of Steppin' Stone. Goes through obvious bulge and roof combo. Finishes on same anchor as Steppin' Stone.

Protection 

6 bolts with optional .6-1" gear in roof crack. Can clip first bolt by going high on starting shelf- then can continue from there of step back down to start climbing directly beneath the bolt.


Comments on Holy Smoke Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aidan Maguire
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Route is rated 11d and depends a bit on reach at crux. Option gear is not optional unless very bold and up to 1.5 inch