Holy Roller  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 440 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Joe French, Brody Greer (9/06), FFA: French, Zach Lee (2007) Submitted By:  George Perkins on Nov 14, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Holy Roller seeks out the right of the 3 prominent vertical splitter cracks at the north end of Mt. Spry (the left line is "Sandblaster", and the middle one is "Central Pillar"). The thing is, this crack doesn't start at the base of the route, so a bolt-protected face pitch gains it, with a couple great pitches as a reward. This aspect of Mt. Spry is shaded in the a.m. and sees afternoon sun.

P1: Climb a hand/fist crack in a right facing corner to a bolted anchor (5.9, 60').
P2: Follow the bolts up and right, through intricate face climbing. Most of the pitch is bolt-protected, but you'll need 1-3 pieces of gear for a finger/hand crack just below the anchor (5.10+, 90').
P3: Face climb up and left past 2 bolts. Enter a left trending crack system and follow this on a ramp past a bulge to a bolted belay (5.11, 100').
P4: Splitter hands straight up, passing a couple of bulges to a bolted belay (5.11, 100').
P5: Splitter hand crack to a pod (5.9?, 40').
Descent: Rap the route (we had 2x 60m, but 1 would probably work). With 2 ropes, go straight from the p3 to p1 anchors, rather than swinging over to the 2nd belay.

Location 

The face with Holy Roller and Sandblaster is pretty clear on the north side of Mt. Spry's west face. Park at the last pull-off on the right before reaching Court of the Patriarchs and hike up the hill (no trail).

Protection 

2 ea. cams to 4", and 7-8 quickdraws.