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Holy Mackerel 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: TR-Russ Bobzien FLA-Marcos Nunez
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: EliotAC on Jul 4, 2011
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Description 

This climb is great for boulderers. It starts out with sidepulls and crimps to a stiff dead point to a flat hold. Crimp like mad on the razor crimps to a three points off dyno/deadpoint to a jug. Rest up for the final boulder problem crimping and side pulling to the obvious undercling where you'll pull on better crimps above the roof to get established on the slab. Follow the crimps on the slab to the top. This climb is essentially a long V7/8 boulder problem. I think most people stick clip the first two bolts.


Location 

This is the first line to the right of Pelicans and Walkin a Thin Line. It takes the over hanging face line directly up and over the mini roof meeting back up with Pelicans on the slab above. Rap back down off the double U-loop anchors.


Protection 

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Shares the anchor with Pelicans to its left and Walkin a Thin Line further left.



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By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Jul 4, 2011

A short clip of the types of moves you'll encounter on this cimb...

oceandave.com/Duane-2up3.mpg

By B.Steel
Sep 10, 2013

It's not absolutely necessary to stick clip the first two bolts, but I'd recommend it if you have any doubt in your mind. On all my tries I haven't stick clipped the bolts and on the numerous times I've fallen onto the first bolt it's normally okay if your belayer is attentive (you just run into them quite a bit). However, I have hit the ground once, but you're still only ~8 feet off the ground so it's not awful.

Basically what I'm saying is you can still go for it even if you forgot to bring a stick clip.

Or you can lower off the .10 to the left of it and put two draws up and clip the rope through.