Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South and East Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
TAD T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hollywood & Vine 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 270', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Cole, Raymond Jacquot '60
Page Views: 5,358
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Unknown South Dakota climbers on Hollywood & Vine....
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb has one of the more interesting pitches at the tower. The first pitch is essentially an approach pitch, but still fun (5.5). The second pitch is a long seam that is a full rope length. This originally was only possible as an aid climb, but as people kept putting larger pitons in old pin scars, the seam widened up enough to jam two fingers in each slot. Pins are no longer used, and this is currently a free climb. For the third pitch, climb a short 5.4 section to the meadows.

This route is pretty easy to find. Follow the South Face approach, passing the ladder near Bon Homme. Slightly past this point is a column separated from the tower with a bolted line up it (Roach Addition, 5.7). Start just right of this rock for the 5.5 pitch.


Protection 

Nuts, Aliens, TCU's, tricams - anything for finger size on the second pitch. Standard Rack for first pitch.



Photos of Hollywood & Vine Slideshow Add Photo
Mike follows pitch 2.
Mike follows pitch 2.
Mike on pith 2.
Mike on pith 2.
The route...
The route...
Comments on Hollywood & Vine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 4, 2004

This route is very low angle... Almost a face climb. A must do route. Beautiful stemming and finger crack with face holds. One of the best 5.10s in the USA. Get out and do it!

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 6, 2004

Multiple #3, #4 & #5 Rocks are useful for this route.No need for anything over a .75 Camalot.

By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 9, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Steve Gardiner's guide says "lieback off pin scars". As I remember, stemming is the way to go. BEAUTIFUL ROUTE!!

By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 28, 2012

Both pitches can be linked together with a 70 m rope.