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Castleton Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrowhead, The T 
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 
Black Sun T 
Burning Inside T 
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 
Hollowpoint T 
Kor-Ingalls Route T 
North Chimney T 
North Face T 
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 
Sacred Ground T 
Stardust Cowboy T 
West Face T 


YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,416
Submitted By: david goldstein on May 2, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A lot of climbing on this excellent pitch which will improve once it sees enough ascents to clean up some of the choss. Note the star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch routes.

Starts just left of Little White Lieback and right of Stardust Cowboy below a small roof about 20' off the ground above which is a long corner capped by a much bigger roof.

Has a technical crux (00/gray TCU comes in handy) near the ground followed by sustained finger cracks which become a hand crack about 20' below the second roof. Traverse left at the 2nd roof (3.5 Friend), pulling around its end into a hanging handcrack. Follow this to a tricky pod with a rattly finger crack in the back. Ten feet later you finally hit easier climbing, slabs which take you to a rappel station on Stardust Cowboy.

Continue up Stardust Cowboy or rappel to the ground. Note a single 70M rope is not long enough for this rappel.


1 ea #1-#7 RockTCU 3ea .4, 2ea .5, 3ea .75Friend 3ea #1, 2 ea 1.5, 2ea #2, 2ea # 2.5, 1 #3, 1 #3.5A few quickdraws, 2-4 long slings

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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 26, 2005

this is a jay smith route. we did it in the late 90s the same week iwas privledgedenoughto have gone with him and a guy named paul...tearre or something, up burning within about sixdays earlier.

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