Hollow Headed Blondes
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10' of low angle easy start (sub 5.5) to 20-25' 5.7ish middle section then heads right for 10-15' of 5.6 to the chains. Volcanic rock with some pockets, a nice flake, and sharp crimpers.
Same start as "Blonde Ambition" which starts on steeper rock between lower angle rock on either side. Up through bulge, then right for 5.6 bypass of "Blonde Ambition's" crux then angle towards chains.
Top rope chain anchor. We will eventually drill for lead once we finish the rest of the TR anchors on the dome. You can top rope directly off the chains but you can lessen rope drag by extending the anchors with shoulder length (or longer) slings without missing out on good climbing because it is low angle from the top of the crux section to the chains.
By Sam Thomps
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 30, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Probably the least fun of the three variant routes in the center, but also the least chossy as well, with the best holds. If you brought a new climber to this wall, I'd send them up this route.