Holiday Road 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Kirk Miller, Alex Andrews |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kirk Miller on Aug 1, 2009 |
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All you ever wanted.
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Description Enjoy your holiday, there might be a few twists and turns along the way, but the vacation isn't over till you clip the anchors.
Location About 30 feet left of Beasto you'll find a rock staircase leading to your belay pad in the jungle. Holiday Road is furthest to the right, the first route you encounter.
Protection 9 bolts to chain link anchors.
BETA PHOTO: "Rock Ladder" to belay for Holiday Road.
| Carol enjoying a Holiday, 8-28-09.
| Myong starting up Holiday Road.
| Myong on Holiday Road.
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By Alex A Aug 2, 2009
| A fun, easier climb, that makes you think at the crux, the last 8ft. |
By HansF Aug 2, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| Nice meeting you today Kirt and Kirt! I'd say it's a sustained 5.7 until the very last move which I'd call a solid 5.8. It's probably a little harder because of the mass amount of lichen on it right now. Great job and thanks again for all your hard work on the crag! |
By Casey Lems From: Lakewood, CO Aug 3, 2009 rating: 5.7
| I agree. Cruising 5.7 until the last move. You can go far left to make things easier, but going over the face is a stiff 5.8 move. Another great route, Thanks so much, Kirk! Can't wait to get on the others you have lined up! |
By Jim Gloeckler From: Denver, Colo. Sep 4, 2009
| Start seems like 5.6 then a 5.7 move around the 50' level and then the finishing slab seems like 5.8+ to me. Thin holds and a few moves. Slightly harder than the crux on Bitty Buttress or Upper Ruper for that matter; both being only 2 move cruxes. Just my opinion, but then again I'm getting older now. Three stars. |
By Michael Kopinsky Aug 20, 2010
| Hardest part is getting a stance to clip the anchors. |
By Alan Robertson From: Denver, CO Jun 29, 2011 rating: 5.8+ PG13
| A friend slipped trying to get to the anchors last week. He hit the ledge below the headwall and broke his ankle. So be careful or give a tight belay to prevent similar accidents. |
By Teigon S. Aug 27, 2011
| I found the best way to get to the chains ( which can be considered unsafe) is to go a little right and up and over the top. Clove my rope to the anchors and swing back down. I usually do this if I'm just trying to set a top rope for people in a rush, but if you have the time, have fun jumpin to the chains on the direct route!! |
By Matt Pierce From: Morrison, CO May 10, 2012
| I agree that the last 8-10 feet is the crux. That last bolt before the anchors was tough to get if you're staying left just a bit. You really have to stay direct on this route. All bolts and anchors are in great shape this week. |
By NickMartel From: Tucson, Arizona Apr 1, 2013 rating: 5.7
| If at the top you take the left side (up the gully/seam), it's 5.7, direct is solid 5.8(+) IMHO. Worth an extra half star (up to 1.5 *s) if done directly. |
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