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Mothership Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barracuda S 
Blood Sport S 
Catch and Release S 
Excelsior S 
Fight Club S 
Holey Wars S 
Living Dead S 
Northern Pike S 
Piranha S 
Sea Monkey S 
Steelhead S 

Holey Wars 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: bolted by Todd Graham back in the 90's - never truly redpointed until 2012
Page Views: 3,214
Submitted By: Katiebird on Apr 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Holey Wars - in the crux moves.

Description 

Amazing route on some of the best rock in the Gorge. It's climbing minimalism at it's best. Long moves on very thin holds. There are two rests before the last crux section which climbs through a mono - then you gotta hold on for the pump until the end. Powerful and techy.

Location 

At the Mothership Cliff on the smooth face to the right of Piranha

Protection 

Bolted


Photos of Holey Wars Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lonnie Kauk on Holey Wars
Lonnie Kauk on Holey Wars
Rock Climbing Photo: Lonnie Kauk, on "Holey Wars"
Lonnie Kauk, on "Holey Wars"
Rock Climbing Photo: Lonnie Kauk on Holey Wars
Lonnie Kauk on Holey Wars
Rock Climbing Photo: Holey War
Holey War
Rock Climbing Photo: Mothership Cliff, Owens River Gorge, the eastside....
BETA PHOTO: Mothership Cliff, Owens River Gorge, the eastside....
Rock Climbing Photo: Lonnie Kauk, on Holey Wars
Lonnie Kauk, on Holey Wars
Rock Climbing Photo: Lonnie Kauk on Holey Wars
Lonnie Kauk on Holey Wars

Comments on Holey Wars Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Best hard route in the gorge. Sustained crimping on bullet rock. Thanks Todd G. for hooking this thing up.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Mar 29, 2014

Brilliant hard and sustained route. True gorge power endurance test piece. Much failure on this one before red-pointing. I'd give it 13c.
By Todd Graham
Sep 25, 2015

I looked at this face for years...then i finally asked Kevin Leary if I could bolt it (he had a red-tagged bolt at the bottom). Kevin was cool and said go for it. I rapped in from another route of mine ... Catch and Release ... and the Holey War was born. I worked this thing many times ... and had quite a few holds break on me. I TR'd it 3 times clean ... but didn't have the guns to hold on and clip for the RP. Katie called me and asked if she could work on it and I said ok. So glad you folks like the route ... it is an all time favorite of mine. I put an anchor atop the line to the right ... should be another fine thin one.

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