Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mothership Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barracuda S 
Blood Sport S 
Excelsior S 
Fight Club S 
Holey Wars S 
Living Dead S 
Northern Pike S 
Piranha S 
Sea Monkey S 
Steelhead S 

Holey Wars 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: bolted by Todd Graham back in the 90's - never truly redpointed until 2012
Page Views: 1,830
Submitted By: Katiebird on Apr 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Holey Wars - in the crux moves.

Description 

Amazing route on some of the best rock in the Gorge. It's climbing minimalism at it's best. Long moves on very thin holds. There are two rests before the last crux section which climbs through a mono - then you gotta hold on for the pump until the end. Powerful and techy.

Location 

At the Mothership Cliff on the smooth face to the right of Piranha

Protection 

Bolted


Photos of Holey Wars Slideshow Add Photo
Mothership Cliff, Owens River Gorge, the eastside....
BETA PHOTO: Mothership Cliff, Owens River Gorge, the eastside....
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, first ascentionist on "Holey War...
Lonnie Kauk, first ascentionist on "Holey War...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...
Lonnie Kauk, FA of Holey Wars, thanks to Todd Grah...

Comments on Holey Wars Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Best hard route in the gorge. Sustained crimping on bullet rock. Thanks Todd G. for hooking this thing up.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Mar 29, 2014

Brilliant hard and sustained route. True gorge power endurance test piece. Much failure on this one before red-pointing. I'd give it 13c.