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Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
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Should be Called Do What? S 
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Holey Moley 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 3,605
Submitted By: duh on Feb 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Holey Moley area.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Start just left of The Raven, below a series of huecos on the blunt arete. Climb the steep huecos past 3 bolts to a ledge, continue up to a short left facing corner and into the lower angle ramp/large hueco. Step up and left onto a small ledge and then back right to a horozontal dike with some large crystals. climb onto the dike(crux) and face climb up, slightly right at the bulge then back left to the anchor. Extending with longer draws the 4th and 6th(chicken bolts) will help with rope drag on this long route.


Protection 

12 bolts, chain anchor(shared with The Raven).



Photos of Holey Moley Slideshow Add Photo
Felicia on the Holy Moly
Felicia on the Holy Moly
"Holey Moley", no babes! <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Holey Moley", no babes!
Photo by Blitzo.
"Holey Moley". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Holey Moley".
Photo by Blitzo.
Holey Moley - First 10a lead. Coming 'round the bulge. <br />November 13, 2011
Holey Moley - First 10a lead. Coming 'round the bu...
Comments on Holey Moley Add Comment
Show which comments
By duh
Feb 20, 2007

Way before there was a guide, before there was a bunch of easy routes and even before there were other climbers... there was Holey Moley, the original "Babe Attractor".

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 21, 2007

I did it one summer and attracted nothing but flies...

but it is a very fun route none the less...

By Blitzo
Mar 9, 2007

It's fun, but it would be more fun with babes!

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

IMO, the best of the easy stuff at New Jack. Fun long jug haul (5.9-?) with a bit of thin slab at the end.

By smokinJoe
Dec 30, 2011

Really fun climb! Crux is on the last bulge before the anchors- a must do for sure!

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 26, 2012

Crux goes a couple ways, then a fun bit of exposure up top on easier ground before the anchors.