Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
One-Eyed Cat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beat the Devil T 
Classic Cowboy T 
Flying High as the Sky T 
Had a Lean on My Sole S 
Hole in the Ozone S 
Iceman Cometh S 
Mask of the Devil S 
One-Eyed Cat S 
Voodoo Glow Skulls S 

Hole in the Ozone 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, May 2007
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), ...

Description 

Power up thin moves along twin lieback flakes at the start to gain the "hole" and the end of the difficulties. Move up and left past a slight runout on easy ground (optional 1" piece) to the base of a steep smooth slab. Up the slab, move left over a small roof and finish up near-vertical bumpy face to anchors on a ledge.

It's recommended to clip the 1st bolt with a single locker and not clip the 2nd bolt until after you've grabbed the hole. Doing otherwise may make the route more difficult and result in a potential groundfall.

Location 

Right of Mask of the Devil in a pit.

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors


Comments on Hole in the Ozone Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 5, 2009

All but the start of this route was done by myself and Fred Maki in 2005 on toprope. At the start we stayed left on the obvious larger holds for a fun 5.8 route.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you follow the bolt line at the bottom, you will be going up a blank face with pin scar cracks and super crimpy holds. I slipped a few times after making the first bolt clip. This route had "just enough" holds and difficult beta if you stay on the bolt line. Very fun and surprising moves near the top.