BETA PHOTO: This is the north side of Holdout. The faint righ...
Between the main area and the Nautilus lies the Holdout, the closest a formation at Vedauwoo gets to rectangular. Although this formation has fewer routes than the Main Area or the Nautilus the high concentration of classic lines make for a mandatory visit. Mostly traditional lines, although a few high grade sport and mixed routes can be found. Classics include Arch Stanton (5.11d) on the SE side (lots of sun side) to Oslund's Delight (5.8), Currey's Diagnol (5.10b), Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d), Silver Surfer (5.9), Pipeline (5.12a) and the incomparable Beefeater (5.10b) on the NW side (late day sun).
Easiest approach is via the campground. One can park at the lot outside the main area and walk into the park and through the campground finding trails that lead to the extreme southern end of the Holdout, continue down and left to the NW face, or up and right to reach the SE face.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
22 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Holdout
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Holdout:
Beefeater 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches
Arch Stanton 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Pipeline 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Holdout
Eleven Cent Moon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a WY
A nice route below and slightly [right] of the plum line below Currey's anchors. Follows a traversing, thin crack left, before a mantle move above to reach the first of two bolts. Balancy moves reach the final dihedral. Place secure small wires before blasting through the thin moves of the crux. An unprotected face TR variation (12a) climbs up a thin dihedral off the crescent moon flake at the base directly into the line....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: A view of the Holdout with respect to the Nautilus...
We encountered two of these as we were fleeing the...
By Erik Wagg
Jun 15, 2004
I was climbing at the Holdout June 12, 2004. Someone (a lower form of life) stole all the Hangers from the top of all the climbs. We had to down climb a corner on the North-East end of the formation.
By Andy Johnson
Jul 10, 2004
I just wanted to say thanks to the cheap asshole who stole the hangers of all the anchors.
By Justin Edl
May 13, 2006
Just for clarification, most, if not all, the anchors have been replaced.
Jun 12, 2008
I was out there last week, and there was one cold shut on the anchors for Bushwhack (or Narrow and Ugly or Wide and Ugly...). Not that I recommend hanging your life on a single piece, but the bolts are in great shape and we had no problem rapping off the one cold shut.
Please don't take it off, who ever is doing that.
Also, I wanted to add that it looks like the route labeling for the north end of the southeast face is a little off in the big red guidebook. Narrow and Ugly in the guidebook appears to point to a very thin seam which is NOT 5.8. The hand crack just to the right of it (which is un-labled in the book) is a nice 5.8.
Also, to get to these climbs, head up to the right side of the big ledge and scramble up a narrow gully (as described in the book). The left side of the ledge is a blank face.
By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Jul 26, 2011
Current anchor situation, July 2011: NW Face: Still a good rap station atop "Beefeater". I haven't checked for the rap stations which are supposed to be above "Mad Cow Disease," "Pipeline," or "Currey's Diagonal." SE face: Slightly swiveling coldshuts atop the shared finish of "Wide & Ugly"/"Narrow & Ugly"/"Bushwack." Atop "Arch Stanton," a rusty chain and a hangerless buttonhead only. I did not check for slings or bolts atop "Flaming Blue Jesus." The rap stations I checked are all one-rope rappels (50-60 meter... 'go long,' like the QB says).