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Dozier Dome
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Unsorted Routes:

Holdless Horror 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: TM Herbert and Jeff Dozier
Page Views: 4,433
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Aug 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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Look ma, no holds!

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


P1: Start on the face just right of the bush growing out of the bottom of the crack. Climb up to first horizontal ledge, or, further up to the next smaller one (80 or 100 feet?) and build a belay anchor. 5.6.
P2: The "business" pitch. Climb up and mitigate impending horror by using the "holdless" terrain rather than get engulfed in the people eatin', imposing crack. Busy, but, never hard and the pro is decent if you take the time to find the money spots. 5.7.
P3: The fun 5.6 pitch. Great climbing that gets steep and improbable looking, but, always a nice foot and/or hand hold to help you out.
P4: Final easy fifth class romp to the top. Can climb far enough up to set belay for a safe walk off following the pitch. Low angle, one short roof near the end of the pitch. Great gear, but, somewhat spread out between bomber placements.

Historically significant as the first technical rock climbing route on this Dome. Great name, too. Classic TMH.


Climb is located on the west side of Dozier Dome. Look for the crack system, left of the big diagonal break in the wall, kind of in the middle of the big flat face, which extends all the way to the ground. Is a large green bush in the bottom of the crack. Crack is distinctive as its the only one on this side of the Dome that continues down below (and through) the horizontal ledge all the way to ground level. Prominent crack system viewable from a distance. Goes straight up.

Summit area has great views of Cathedral Peak area and surrounding domes.

The hike down is bonus, and, for some folks, easily as quality as the climbing. If conditions permit, hike to Cathedral Lake and then follow the water course down, taking the path of least resistance. Beautiful hike on its own. Near the bottom, where Dozier Dome starts to appear to melt into the forest on the climber's left, cut over to the base of the dome to pick up packs, if left at the base (and/or to pick up the well-marked climber's trail back to the car). Easy, fun hike with improbable positions and great scenery. Could spend a bunch of time playing around down climbing low angle friction faces, or, walking around to the left or right.


Standard rack. Nuts and single set of cams from small (1 TCU) to a #4 camalot. No fixed gear. No anchors.

Photos of Holdless Horror Slideshow Add Photo
Belay at end of pitch 1
Belay at end of pitch 1
First pitch of Holdless Horror.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Holdless Horror.
At the first pitch, heading up the second...
BETA PHOTO: At the first pitch, heading up the second...
2nd pitch of Holdless Horror.  Eeeek!  No holds, t...
BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of Holdless Horror. Eeeek! No holds, t...
Holdless Horror.  Prominent crack in center of pho...
BETA PHOTO: Holdless Horror. Prominent crack in center of pho...
3rd pitch of Holdless Horror.  First wide section ...
BETA PHOTO: 3rd pitch of Holdless Horror. First wide section ...
First belay (photo credit Anne Marie).
BETA PHOTO: First belay (photo credit Anne Marie).
Last pitch of Holdless Horror.  Let 'er run.
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch of Holdless Horror. Let 'er run.
Anchor after 2nd pitch.
Anchor after 2nd pitch.
Sascha following p2 on Holdless Horror
Sascha following p2 on Holdless Horror
Flared crack but not difficult.
BETA PHOTO: Flared crack but not difficult.

Comments on Holdless Horror Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 16, 2014
By Joe Dawson
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I do not agree with the PG13 designation. I hate runout and I do not remember any on this route.
By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Jul 7, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Hexes work great on this one; good for practice.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb is NOT PG13! It is very well protected with passive gear.
By Jedidiah McClure
From: Paso Robles CA
Aug 29, 2010

This route is really fun and easy. I'd give it 5.6. This is a great route for those learning to lead! This was one of my first multi-pitch leads and the ample holds made for a calm and confident climb. Protection is solid, I recall running it out about 15-20 feet several times, the many holds giving me the confidence to not zip it up. Anchors were easy to build. Ate '1 to '2 pieces, hexes worked well.

The approach hike is a pleasant walk through the trees and the down-hike is also interesting.
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I climbed this last week with a friend (Anne Marie). It took me too long to find it on Mountain Project because I couldn't believe it was rated 5.7 PG-13 and was looking for the 5.6 climb on Dozier Dome. I didn't notice any runout and felt the climbing more 5.6. In my opinion, this would be a classic moderate climb if crack on the final pitch was more vertical. Unfortunately, the angle lays back a bit much on the final pitch. Solid placements throughout. I extended the anchor on the final belay about 20 feet to watch the second and avoid rope drag.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 2, 2011

Don't get sucked into the wide crack too much. In my opinion it was much easier to stem and stay on the outside.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.7 pg13 that's a good one
By Peter Pitocchi
Jun 22, 2012

Easy to find. Easy to climb. Easy to protect. Looong pitches....I used double set. My new favorite climb.
By David Raines
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

One of the most in-aptly named climbs ever. :)
It has lots of holds, and is quite pleasant.

All old-school routes need to be treated with respect, and you need some amount of crack and slab skills to ever feel comfortable on granite, but I remember thinking this was a moderate, well protected, fun climb. I was leading 5.9 consistently at the time, so a beginning leader may have a different experience.
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun Climb. did it on sept 18th. my 1st multi pitch lead. pretty mellow climbing with a few 5.7 moves. i also dont agree with the pg13 rating. there was a ton of gear placements. good 1st trad lead. easy walk off. the creek/waterfall was dry so made for an easy downclimb. lots of good knobs on the edge of the rack mixed with stemming makes it super easy on the wide parts of the crack.
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jan 23, 2014

This climb is definitely 5.6 G rated . great climb with fun moves, great pro, no runouts, in great environment. Only wish it had 6-7 pitches like the first half. Top pitch is 5.0. Awesome views. I'll do it again.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 15, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun, mellow, and well protected.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely not runout. Pushing the limits of 5.6 (might be a bit much for a first 5.6 lead), but easier than Bull Dozier and definitely not as good.
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