Climb up easy ground to gain the crack...Then jam and STEM your way up the corner...making some use of the face hold will help...And again STEM....
Funny side note: When I was learning to trad climb, I would look at this intimidating steep corner often and say someday I'll get on that...But not today....
On one rainy day, for some reason, I was feeling bold and I said today's the day.... Long story short, I pissed myself (figuratively) all the way up the slick corner fearing for my life up to my elbows in the crack with muck dripping in to my arm pits....Looking for gear and realizing that the placements weren't all that straightforward....
I made it to the top, clipped in, and lowered with a big smile on my face covered in cuts and filth....
One slip and it could have been very different, but on that day I was happy to have lived life to its fullest....
Be safe and have fun....
Just right of the beautiful face of Flesh For Lulu, there lies a corner with a crack running up it....
Regular rack to #3 cam, takes nuts and handish sized cams well...To quick clips....
The gear can be tricky, don't be fooled by its splitter looks.... It's not hard to protect, it's just easy to make mistakes....
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I have not lead this but it is a beautiful climb that I fully enjoy getting on everytime I can, dont forget to STEM.
|By Anna C.|
Nov 4, 2009
Lead this climb!! Good technique makes it a cruise.
Make sure you save your number 2 cam for the top unless you are comfortable running out 20+ feet to the anchors with marginal to non-existent pro (I placed a .75 cam and a large nut, but they were both pretty bad). You're on easier ground, but still.
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 18, 2011
I never regret bringing big cam number 4 for the top section before you climb up to the ledge. Friends 1 through 4 all find good homes and are quick to place when you know the climb well.
Also, start with a good "Jesus Nut" before you even get to the crack by slotting a larger nut into one of the little crack structures 10-15 feet below the ledge where you start the main part of the climb. Once slotted through, let the end of the wire come out below where the rock is pinched shut, and clip. You will have an invincible multidirectional first placement.
|By Mike Phillips|
Jul 18, 2011
Can be a bit cobwebby if it hasn't been touched recently. Plenty of gear opportunities. As said by others, just make sure you pay a bit more attention while placing because it isn't a perfect splitter.
|By Devin Krevetski|
From: West Woodstock, VT
Aug 2, 2012
I brought (and used) doubles in camalots 1-3...
Aug 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
With doubles on C1s & 2s and a 3 it felt like a sport climb - just plug and go and the pro was real solid. I think I also placed a .75 for a total of 6 pieces. We pulled the rope and people led it like a sport climb afterwards and one guy even hung his way up. Overall I really enjoyed the climb.
|By Matt Glue|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2013
Single rack to #3 will get it done, but save your big cams for the top or be ready for a big runout.