BETA PHOTO: The dirt road you follow to the crag.
A pretty out-of-the-way crag where you'll almost certainly be alone when you come out here. It's pretty good for climbing in the summer because the rock faces north and west. The routes are relatively short at 15m and there are no outstanding routes that would lure the crowds. However, the climbing is enjoyable, as is the isolation. If you're looking for a relaxed, quiet atmosphere with a wide variety of difficulty to try, then this is a good crag to come to. There are 24 routes ranging from UIAA 4 to 8+/9- (5.4 to 5.12b). However, while I haven't done all of the routes here (obviously), I would question the accuracy of the 8+/9- rating. Come and find out for yourself and offer up your own correction for what the guidebook says.
From Nürnberg/Erlangen head north on A73 and exit into Forchheim. Follow the signs towards Ebermannstadt and continue driving through Ebermannstadt. After a little while after leaving this town, you'll see a sign on your left showing you the road you need to take to get to Heiligenstadt. Once you've reached Heiligenstadt continue down the main road and just as you're leaving you'll see a road on your right directing you towards Plankenfels. When you get to Neumühle, turn towards Reckendorf. When you enter Reckendorf, take the road on your right and follow it for 200m and park next to the Glass container. Hike 50m up the hill on the road and turn left on the dirt road. After 120m, the trail forks and you should head to the right through the forest. Stay on this path and don't take another right up the stairs to the hut. After another 150m the red point sign indicates the path takes a sharp right turn. From here you can already see the rock. Either follow the red point path to the right and then head uphill for 100m to get to the right side of the crag or continue up the left fork for about 50m until you see a climber's trail leading up to the left side of the crag.
The hike takes about 15 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 16.2 miles from here
16 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Hoher Stein (High Rock)
Tollwut 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Europe
: ... : Hoher Stein (High Rock)
This routes starts out with a crux and gets continuously easier as it goes, while remaining challenging up until about 2m from the anchor. The crux consists of squeezing the arete up through the first bolt and moving to the right a little bit, getting a great (though for me it was a bit greasy) side-pull/crack and making a tough 2nd clip. Once you get up above the 2nd bolt you can relax and figure out the rest of the route as you go. But remember to take breaks as you find them because the bolts...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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