Climb the shallow, right-facing corner and step right, following the bolts. Then climb the path of least resistance straight up to the top. A 70m rope or doubles / twins are needed to get down.
On the right side of the Hogwild crag, take a left where the path meets the crag and walk uphill to where the path again meets the cliff. There should be a large, left-facing corner about 20 feet your right. Climb the shallow right-facing corner straight up the dikes to the chains above.
Mostly bolted, but small to medium sized cams work well at the top for extra protection.
|By Rick Casey|
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Sep 23, 2008
Did this yesterday, and the crux was certainly getting past the first and second bolts, where the face moves felt more like 5.8 than 5.7 -- well protected, but thin moves for the grade.
Jun 16, 2012
A very good climb, hard for the grade in my opinion. I used a small cam placement before the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and nuts and cams higher up. The gear is small and tricky on this climb, but you can get a lot in if you work at it. The first part is classic Lover's Leap balancy dike mantling. The flake for the top 30 feet is very positive and a fantastic finish to this climb. Need two ropes to rap unless you have a 70 meter rope.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2012
Not the best .7 at the Leap as the Supertopo claims, but a nice mixed line nonetheless.
I do not think this would be a good route for a 5.7/5.8 leader due to the committing run-outs.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Needs a confident approach and tricky to get good gear in. UK grade probably HVS 4c - harder than I would expect for "5.7".
|By Elizabeth Leddy|
May 29, 2013
I actually loved this route and the adrenaline rush from finishing it help it earn its stars. sustained and runout for sure - good adrenaline rush. I was SO grateful I had a set of offset nuts for this.
From: Davis, CA
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Felt like there was one tough move (thin hands and feet) right at the first bolt. Everything else felt 5.7. Placed two nuts before the first bolt, then a few cams above the last bolt.