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Industrial Wall
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Hoffa Finger 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1994, Jim Reynolds, Mark Hadnot, Jeff Cobabe
Page Views: 2,272
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Sep 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Abe pulling the roof.

Description 

Really quite entertaining, and perfect for the hot summer days when this is in the shade for a good portion of the day. Moderate difficulty mixed with decent exposure and odd moves make for a worthwhile outing. The route is about dead-center on Industrial Wall, and is the up-canyon route of the two on either side of the roofs and blocks. The start is directly below the first roof on the granite blocks. Move up into the broken corner that makes up the climb. Ascend the crack and face to the first roof. Moving out right of this roof is one of the more entertaining moves on the climb. Continue up through the next block and roof to the exit move out over a spike of granite. Rap the route.


Protection 

Five bolts, Five quickdraws... Funny how that works out. Belay is bolted with chains.



Photos of Hoffa Finger Slideshow Add Photo
E rock on Hoffa Figer
E rock on Hoffa Figer
E rock on Hoffa Finger
E rock on Hoffa Finger
Right rope going up the bolt line
BETA PHOTO: Right rope going up the bolt line
Comments on Hoffa Finger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 21, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is extremely hard for 5.9 in my opinion. This thing and Half a Finger are the only 2 5.9s in LCC that have shut me down.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 24, 2005

Gear Alert

the 10a/b next to it sharing the same anchors has a smashed second bolt from recnt rockfall. hoffa finger has serious dirt all over the start from the rockfall also.

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 21, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is a trick to pulling the crux roof. Without knowing the trick, pulling the roof requires a lot of balance and strength (probably a 5.10b move); otherwise, the route is a stout 5.9+.

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 22, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is definitely an easy way to climb the roof. However, between myself and 2 others that I watched climb it, there were 3 different styles demonstrated of climbing the roof. A great route with lots of fun moves.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Definitely many ways to go through that roof, some of them feeling harder than 5.9... Step out right to reach a crimp and forget about the crack altogether and it feels like a 9. Lieback on this crack with smeared feet and you'll have to do battle !
I felt like the crux was before the roof though, some really slippery feet.

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 12, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

what a classic sleeper route on the industrial wall!! Slabby delicate start to fist jamming roof pulling to heel hooking awesomeness! Loved it. In the shade and 10 degrees cooler.

By JeffM
From: SLC
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun route with a great name- the ”finger” looks a lot like the LCC classic Half a Finger. I’d say it’s easier than half a finger: 5.9 (5.9+ max). Work your feet up at the roof then lay back for a couple of moves (on some big, suspect blocks). The route is fully bolted even though you could place gear in quite a few spots. The route is clean- no dirt.

By Jordon Schaefer
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Maybe I'm remembering wrong but I thought it had 6 bolts... I have to say that this is by far the best 5.9 I have climbed. Pulling the roof is great and the move after the next bolt was just plain fun. I could see the roof being difficult if you didn't decypher it. If you figure out your moves right I'd say this is an easy 5.9, basically a hike after the 5th bolt. It's a solid warm up and a must do for anyone climbing the industrial wall.