Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Elephant Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair 
Crack of Doom 
Crack of Redemption 
Crashline 
Elephant Talk 
Elephantiasis 
Fatal Mistake 
Fun Terminal 
Hairline 
Hocus Pocus 
Hotline 
Hundredth Monkey, The 
Left Guru Crack 
Lost Error 
Moongerms 
Pink Dream 
Pink Elephant 
Plumb Line 
Reality Check 
Right Guru Crack 
Sky 
Straight Error 
Wicked Gravity 
Worst Error, Left 
Worst Error, Right 

Hocus Pocus 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Kohl (early 90's)
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hocus Pocus is a great sport climb up an incredible arete at the top of Elephant Rock. The climb has a good bit of lichen on it due to a lack of traffic, but I tried to clean up some of the holds as I hung my way up it. With more ascents this thing will be absolutely fantastic.

The easiest approach is to rap in from above. Walk to the far northwest corner of the formation to find a two bolt anchor. This climb can also be linked with routes such as Real Error, Crack of Doom, or Crack of Despair to make a complete base-to-summit ascent of Elephant Rock. Hocus Pocus begins off the highest tree-covered ledge on the northwest buttress, a few hundred feet directly above the Worst Error Pinnacle.

Climb up a slab and then follow a thin crack out to the steepest part of the arete. Make fun and wild moves up this blade of granite past a couple different 5.11 cruxes. This leads to a stance with an intermediate bolted anchor at a low angle section. Belay here if you want. Above this is a 5.10+ roof and then easy low-angle knob climbing to the top.


Protection 

Bolts, but you could also place a couple supplementary pieces (small TCU's) down low on the climb.



Comments on Hocus Pocus Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -