Hocus Pocus 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Eric Kohl (early 90's) |
| Submitted By: | Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Hocus Pocus is a great sport climb up an incredible arete at the top of Elephant Rock. The climb has a good bit of lichen on it due to a lack of traffic, but I tried to clean up some of the holds as I hung my way up it. With more ascents this thing will be absolutely fantastic. The easiest approach is to rap in from above. Walk to the far northwest corner of the formation to find a two bolt anchor. This climb can also be linked with routes such as Real Error, Crack of Doom, or Crack of Despair to make a complete base-to-summit ascent of Elephant Rock. Hocus Pocus begins off the highest tree-covered ledge on the northwest buttress, a few hundred feet directly above the Worst Error Pinnacle. Climb up a slab and then follow a thin crack out to the steepest part of the arete. Make fun and wild moves up this blade of granite past a couple different 5.11 cruxes. This leads to a stance with an intermediate bolted anchor at a low angle section. Belay here if you want. Above this is a 5.10+ roof and then easy low-angle knob climbing to the top.
Protection Bolts, but you could also place a couple supplementary pieces (small TCU's) down low on the climb.
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