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Hocus Pocus
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 170 ft (52 m) |
FA: | Eric Kohl (early 90's) |
Page Views: | 1,178 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Hocus Pocus is a great sport climb up an incredible arete at the top of Elephant Rock. The climb has a good bit of lichen on it due to a lack of traffic, but I tried to clean up some of the holds as I hung my way up it. With more ascents this thing will be absolutely fantastic.
The easiest approach is to rap in from above. Walk to the far northwest corner of the formation to find a two bolt anchor. This climb can also be linked with routes such as Real Error, Crack of Doom, or Crack of Despair to make a complete base-to-summit ascent of Elephant Rock. Hocus Pocus begins off the highest tree-covered ledge on the northwest buttress, a few hundred feet directly above the Worst Error Pinnacle.
Climb up a slab and then follow a thin crack out to the steepest part of the arete. Make fun and wild moves up this blade of granite past a couple different 5.11 cruxes. This leads to a stance with an intermediate bolted anchor at a low angle section. Belay here if you want. Above this is a 5.10+ roof and then easy low-angle knob climbing to the top.
The easiest approach is to rap in from above. Walk to the far northwest corner of the formation to find a two bolt anchor. This climb can also be linked with routes such as Real Error, Crack of Doom, or Crack of Despair to make a complete base-to-summit ascent of Elephant Rock. Hocus Pocus begins off the highest tree-covered ledge on the northwest buttress, a few hundred feet directly above the Worst Error Pinnacle.
Climb up a slab and then follow a thin crack out to the steepest part of the arete. Make fun and wild moves up this blade of granite past a couple different 5.11 cruxes. This leads to a stance with an intermediate bolted anchor at a low angle section. Belay here if you want. Above this is a 5.10+ roof and then easy low-angle knob climbing to the top.
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