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 ADVANCED
Elephant Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair T 
Crack of Doom T 
Crack of Redemption T 
Crashline T 
Elephant Talk S 
Elephantiasis T 
Fatal Mistake T 
Fun Terminal S 
Hairline T 
Hocus Pocus S 
Hotline T 
Hundredth Monkey, The S 
Left Guru Crack T 
Lost Error T 
Moongerms T 
Pink Dream T 
Pink Elephant T 
Plumb Line T 
Real Error T 
Reality Check T 
Right Guru Crack T 
Sky T 
Straight Error T 
Trundling Juan T 
Wicked Gravity S 
Worst Error, Left T 
Worst Error, Right T 

Hocus Pocus 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Kohl (early 90's)
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012

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Description 

Hocus Pocus is a great sport climb up an incredible arete at the top of Elephant Rock. The climb has a good bit of lichen on it due to a lack of traffic, but I tried to clean up some of the holds as I hung my way up it. With more ascents this thing will be absolutely fantastic.

The easiest approach is to rap in from above. Walk to the far northwest corner of the formation to find a two bolt anchor. This climb can also be linked with routes such as Real Error, Crack of Doom, or Crack of Despair to make a complete base-to-summit ascent of Elephant Rock. Hocus Pocus begins off the highest tree-covered ledge on the northwest buttress, a few hundred feet directly above the Worst Error Pinnacle.

Climb up a slab and then follow a thin crack out to the steepest part of the arete. Make fun and wild moves up this blade of granite past a couple different 5.11 cruxes. This leads to a stance with an intermediate bolted anchor at a low angle section. Belay here if you want. Above this is a 5.10+ roof and then easy low-angle knob climbing to the top.

Protection 

Bolts, but you could also place a couple supplementary pieces (small TCU's) down low on the climb.


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