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The North West Territories
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Hocus Focus 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Joel O'Connel 1990
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: this is where you are supposed to mantel somehow h...
Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Technical climbing following the thin seam on a steep slab to a steeper finish. Apparently you are meant to mantel the finish but it is so filthy and over grown I literally had to dig through dirt to find the bolts.

My vote is to put the anchor a little lower so that you don't need to mantel in to the overgrown jungle. I haven't climbed it yet but I wanted to warn folks about the anchor which is pretty funky. I will post pictures of the anchor to explain.


Location 

The thin seam with bolts


Protection 

5 bolts to funky anchor.



Photos of Hocus Focus Slideshow Add Photo
note the moss growing on the sling haha... one biner was fine, one stayed open and one wouldnt open at all haha
BETA PHOTO: note the moss growing on the sling haha... one bin...
one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this would exist at rumney, and i thought i had seen the worst... if you develop a route just do it right (safely)
BETA PHOTO: one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...
Comments on Hocus Focus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Sep 12, 2013

Lee is this anchor still a mank-show or did you zap in a new one? If it's still dangerous we can ask the landowner for permission to fix it.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2013

Pete, it is on my list to redo with the stainless glue-ins as soon as the season for Green's closes in, unless Smitty or Dave have already gotten to it. I wouldn't bother the land owner about it. He is fine with climbers using the area as long as they keep the noise down and be safe.

I took the manky slings down and pulled some of the moss away abt a month ago and found a good spot below the lip in preparation for new anchors while we were waiting for the bolts to arrive( I may have even drilled the holes) We'll replace all the protection bolts too.

By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Sep 12, 2013

Sounds good. Will PM you.