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 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Approaching Armageddon  
B-b-buttress 
Beerless Leader 
Friend Zone, The 
Hard Times 
Hocus Focus 
Paper Wafer 
Primitive Times  
Scrubbing Bubbas 
Very Nice Crack 

Hocus Focus 

5.12c

   
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Type: Sport, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
FA: Joel O'Connel 1990
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

You & This Route
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BETA PHOTO: this is where you are supposed to mantel somehow h...

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Description 

Technical climbing following the thin seam on a steep slab to a steeper finish. Apparently you are meant to mantel the finish but it is so filthy and over grown I literally had to dig through dirt to find the bolts.

My vote is to put the anchor a little lower so that you don't need to mantel in to the overgrown jungle. I haven't climbed it yet but I wanted to warn folks about the anchor which is pretty funky. I will post pictures of the anchor to explain.


Location 

The thin seam with bolts, the second to last bolted route up the hill.


Protection 

5 bolts to funky anchor.



Photos of Hocus Focus Slideshow Add Photo
note the moss growing on the sling haha... one biner was fine, one stayed open and one wouldnt open at all haha

BETA PHOTO: note the moss growing on the sling haha... one bin...

one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this would exist at rumney, and i thought i had seen the worst... if you develop a route just do it right (safely)

BETA PHOTO: one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...