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The North West Territories
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Hocus Focus 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Joel O'Connel 1990
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: this is where you are supposed to mantel somehow h...

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Technical climbing following the thin seam on a steep slab to a steeper finish. Apparently you are meant to mantel the finish but it is so filthy and over grown I literally had to dig through dirt to find the bolts.

My vote is to put the anchor a little lower so that you don't need to mantel in to the overgrown jungle. I haven't climbed it yet but I wanted to warn folks about the anchor which is pretty funky. I will post pictures of the anchor to explain.

Location 

The thin seam with bolts

Protection 

5 bolts to funky anchor.


Photos of Hocus Focus Slideshow Add Photo
note the moss growing on the sling haha... one bin...
BETA PHOTO: note the moss growing on the sling haha... one bin...
one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...
BETA PHOTO: one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...

Comments on Hocus Focus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Sep 12, 2013

Lee is this anchor still a mank-show or did you zap in a new one? If it's still dangerous we can ask the landowner for permission to fix it.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2013

Pete, it is on my list to redo with the stainless glue-ins as soon as the season for Green's closes in, unless Smitty or Dave have already gotten to it. I wouldn't bother the land owner about it. He is fine with climbers using the area as long as they keep the noise down and be safe.

I took the manky slings down and pulled some of the moss away abt a month ago and found a good spot below the lip in preparation for new anchors while we were waiting for the bolts to arrive( I may have even drilled the holes) We'll replace all the protection bolts too.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Sep 12, 2013

Sounds good. Will PM you.