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Hocus Focus 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Joel O'Connel 1990
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Thanks for the new bolts!

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Recently rebolted and cleaned (2015), this old formerly seldom done test piece should now be more appealing. The climbing certainly warrants more attempts. The route follows the thin vertical seam up the steep face, through a couple shallow overlaps to a short bulge and finishing mantel top-out. Stick clip the first bolt as you are above a sharp flake and drop-off, then work out your perfect beta to get you through the technical crimps, foot smears and bear hugs. Make sure you mantel the top-out and don't just tag the anchors for the official tick!

Location 

The thin vertical seam with bolts about midway along the crag. Starts above a small ledge.

Protection 

Recently all rebolted (2015) - 6 SS glue-in bolts to anchor with rings. Stick clipping the first bolt highly recommended.


Photos of Hocus Focus Slideshow Add Photo
this is where you are supposed to mantel somehow h...
BETA PHOTO: this is where you are supposed to mantel somehow h...
one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...
BETA PHOTO: one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...
note the moss growing on the sling haha... one bin...
BETA PHOTO: note the moss growing on the sling haha... one bin...

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 27, 2015

The route has been scrubbed up and the bolts and anchors all replaced with SS glue-ins. It is ripping, hard, fingery and technical, a great route if you like that style. The old anchor above still needs to be removed and the topout could use a little more brushing up, but it should be fine to climb already (It'll probably get done next weekend)

Make sure you mantle the top out and not just tag the anchors for the tick! I am thinking it may be a little stiff for 12c.
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