Hocus Focus  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.12- [details] FA:  Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown -- FFA Brian Williams Submitted By:  nbrown on Aug 19, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bruce and Andrew starting the second pitch. Photo...

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Temporarily closed. 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P-1 (5.10+/A0 or 5.12a) Climb past a pin and bolt via large patina type holds to a diagonal line of bolts. There is an A-0 move at the 5th bolt that now goes free and involves some thin terrain and use of a small crystal. Continue up to a short crack that leads to a thin face, passing 2 more bolts to the anchor.
P-2 (5.11) Climb straight up to a good slot, which is perfect for a pink tricam. Continue up past 2 more bolts (crux) to easier terrain. Move right a bit, and follow the line of least resistance (generally straight up) past many of the same size horizontals (small alliens or TCU's) to the last bolt. Continue to 2 bolt rap anchor.

Location 

This is the right hand line of bolts just right of Slabbra Cadabbra, and at the top of the gully.

Protection 

P-1 light rack
P-2 pink tricam, 2-3 sets of small/medium aliens or TCU's