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> B. Between Castaway &…
Hobbit's Way
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in B. Between Castaway and Wizard's Gate
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Beside The Seaside T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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DuMais Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Green Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hobbit's Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ramshorn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rich Kelly & Gordon Laurens (Sept. 20, 2015) |
| Page Views: | 905 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Kelly on Jul 15, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This is a variation on Left Center route that diverges left part way up pitch 2 of it. Solid enjoyable and well-protected climbing.
P1. Do either start to Left Center.
P2. Start up P2 of Left Center, but when you get to the base of the crux stemming flake/corner, move up and left (crux), and continue straight up obtuse, right-facing corner heading toward a prominent roof (fairly sustained 5.8-9). 20' or so below the roof, look for a way to move left. Move left 20' or so, and set up a hanging belay (rope drag was bad for me at this point and I had little gear left - it is a long pitch), 170'.
P3. Climb straight up eventually to a ledge. Move left on ledge to get up to and into a hanging, right-facing corner (5.8). Follow this corner and the easier ground above it to the top (this will require simul-climbing 20-30' or so) or find a convenient spot to break up this pitch, 200+'.
P1. Do either start to Left Center.
P2. Start up P2 of Left Center, but when you get to the base of the crux stemming flake/corner, move up and left (crux), and continue straight up obtuse, right-facing corner heading toward a prominent roof (fairly sustained 5.8-9). 20' or so below the roof, look for a way to move left. Move left 20' or so, and set up a hanging belay (rope drag was bad for me at this point and I had little gear left - it is a long pitch), 170'.
P3. Climb straight up eventually to a ledge. Move left on ledge to get up to and into a hanging, right-facing corner (5.8). Follow this corner and the easier ground above it to the top (this will require simul-climbing 20-30' or so) or find a convenient spot to break up this pitch, 200+'.
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