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Hobbit Direct 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Levitate off bad holds and pop to big crimp on arete, continue up easier ground on arete and downclimb route.
Hard sit start. The start feels like trying to squeeze a hippo between your legs.


Arete left of Hobbit Hole.


Pad, no spotter req.

Photos of Hobbit Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex sticking the crux. Photo Mike Mango
Alex sticking the crux. Photo Mike Mango

Comments on Hobbit Direct Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 26, 2009
rating: V4 6B

This thing has the most awkward sit start ever...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 26, 2009
rating: V4 6B

haha definitely agreed matt
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 20, 2009

so awkward....
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Aug 20, 2010

funny, i don't find it awkward at all - between the bomber heel hook and the choice of 4 handholds to start, i think it's a good warmup. there's also an interesting variation that matches the crimp after the first move and follows the small seam up and left.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 19, 2011
rating: V4 6B

Just my 2ยข, but while the first move to the left crimp is hard, the crux for me was getting my right hand up to the little crimp above it without having my left foot slip down onto the ground.

Hobbit Direct starts at 46 second mark:
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 1, 2013

Any world in which that left heel hook can be described as bomber is a world I don't want to climb in.

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