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Hob Knob 'in (aka Butt Cold & Crazy)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
FA: | Chapman & Neal |
Page Views: | 1,408 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Benjamin Chapman on Mar 1, 2014 |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION
Details
1. Texas Canyon is conglomerate that is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.
2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.
Access Issue: Falcon Nest above Tethys
Details
As of October 2019 there is a falcon nesting above the first belay station on Tethys. Climber discretion is advised.
Description
"Butt Cold & Crazy" begins below the cave, 20 ft left of the start of Tethys, with a powerful, unprotected, bouldery start. From the large recess or cave, under the overhang, undercling the upper lip of the cave and climb the right leaning seam above. Continue bouldering through the cave to a 4" diameter hole and a long reach to the thank god inclusion on the left, and higher, two bomber pockets on the right (left of the seam). Once established above the cave, clip the 1st bolt and traverse up and left across the knob infested and lichen covered face to the right side of a very large square block. Continue climbing on amazing knobs (avoiding the lichen) up and slightly left to the anchor, amongst a cluster of large inclusions.
An easier (5.6) alternative start begins on "Tethys," by clipping that routes 1st bolt and traverses left, tying off a knob, and continuing left to the 3rd bolt of "Butt Cold & Crazy."
An easier (5.6) alternative start begins on "Tethys," by clipping that routes 1st bolt and traverses left, tying off a knob, and continuing left to the 3rd bolt of "Butt Cold & Crazy."
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