Hoagie in Heaven 

Thanks for posting this, Tom.

FA - Jeff Russell. Named in memory of the late Ryan Sayers, who had himself been close to the FA of this rig before being tragically struck by lightning while en-route in the Wind River Range.

Starts at the farthest left pockets on the main wall... right hand crimping in a pod and left hand on a lower mono/two finger.

The FA was done by climbing the tall, death choss face above the post-crux pod/ledge, up to a high ledge. The climb was completed by doing a terrifyingly loose and dirty shimmy across the ledge to the left. To actually top out the entire wall is very much not advisable due to very poor rock quality and lichen covered sloping holds.

A much safer and more popular, alternative exit involves doing a lower tier exit via a few lip traverse moves at the ledge/pod, continuing right until the climber can mantle and walk off the back of the block.

Finally: a right more start to Hoagie in Heaven has been done for giggles.... Start with the two finger pocket in your left hand and a very poor mono in your right, power straight up to a good pod and finish. A harder first move than the original line, but less moves and therefore the same grade.

Thanks, JJ. I hadn't realized it had started further left. In the Lloyd video, it seems that he starts in the two pockets? I think this is the version I did. (And I got two fingers in the left hand "mono".)

Word. So it is not clear due to the angle, but it appears that Matt started on my start rather than the original start, which again, doesn't really matter. With the cuts in the video, we can't tell if Matt actually did the full top out, or if they cut out the ledge traverse that I described. Without video of pulling the upper bulge of dirty chossy death, I suspect they cut out the upper ledge traverse for aesthetics.

Nelson did a great job, though.