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The Tan Buttresses
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Hoag-Fisher 
Lazy Sunday Route 
MOAC Memorial Route 
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Work-Life Balance 

Hoag-Fisher 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nathan Hoag, Jack Fisher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: JFisher on Jul 14, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 and 2.

Description 

P1 - start left of "Lazy Sunday" one blocky slabs or left side of left-facing dihedral (preferred), underneath obvious roof + handcrack above. Meander to find gear up to a small belay ledge approximately 35' below roof + crack. 5.9(R), 90'.

P2 - climb a nice crack system through some grass hummocks up and into the overhang. Climb through nice finger crack right of overhang or stem on the left side, eventually gaining the right-facing handcrack above in either scenario. #4 cam works nicely just below roof, FYI. Jam through the NICE handcrack (50') and onto some easier terrain, eventually sharing a belay with "Lazy Sunday" underneath second roof. 5.10, 130'.

P3 - climb left (as opposed to right, as for "Lazy") through detached pillar and then around the corner, reaching the finger crack / corner system mentioned in "MOAC" description. Jam/stem up through steep/thin corner eventually reaching a thin seam and slab (crux). Work right through some sidepulls and eventually easier terrain above gains the huge, grassy ledge shared by all routes. 5.10+, 150'.

Merge with "Anniversary" and/or "Nothin'" flake and handcrack pitches from here to round out a fantastic link-up!

Note: it may be preferrable to extend the 2nd pitch around the pillar to lessen the meandering nature of 3rd pitch, although rope drag was not an issue for our us utilizing the shared belay ledge.

Photos coming soon! (and perhaps a name change, w*nk).


Location 

This is between "MOAC" and "Lazy Sunday."


Protection 

Standard rack to #4, doubles on small cams up to #2 were very helpful.



Photos of Hoag-Fisher Slideshow Add Photo
Corner system around detached pillar, P3.
BETA PHOTO: Corner system around detached pillar, P3.
Pitch 2 and 3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 and 3.
Hand crack on P2.
Hand crack on P2.
From the base.
From the base.
Grassy ledge: link up other routes from here.
Grassy ledge: link up other routes from here.
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