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Belay and start are same as for Red Venus
. Belay on the slab. Climb up to the left to first bolt -which is high, but easy Class III. After first bolt, climb left to a high second bolt (also pretty easy with ledges). The crux is after the second bolt on a steep, thin slab. Use thin edges and mantles to get to and past 3rd bolt. Finish on good holds and easy ledges.
It shares a start and anchors with Red Venus
on the right side of the Whale.
Take the Whale Trail north from a big pine tree at the base of the slab. I recommend a 60m rope.
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Jul 25, 2015
The 3rd bolt was spinning and loose in the rock. Unfortunately, I didn't have a wrench to be able to tighten that down, but I did manage to get a few turns on the nut with a pair of pliers (Gerber tool). If someone is in the area and has a proper wrench, then this bolt could stand to be tighter.
Sep 16, 2013
Between HMS and Red Venus is a decent line for TR. The crux is part of the same slab, just to the right, of the HMS crux. I'd say it's just as fun as HMS (to which I give 2 stars) and about the same difficulty (to which I'd say a couple steps harder than 5.9, but I'm a pansy...).