Hmm! Fresh Meat! 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 230 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Crusher Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, October 1990 |
| Season: | Summer, shade until early afternoon |
| Submitted By: | Ken Trout on Dec 29, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: HMM! FRESH MEAT!
Photo by Mike Carr (2009).
Tom C...
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Beta Mike Carr found this amazing route and brought his brother Tom and me in for a look. Thanks, Mike!
We didn't know who put the route up. Bjorn discovered who did it for us in an old Rock & Ice with a picture of Strappo and Crusher sending.
Pitch one starts with #2 and #3 Camalot-sized jams. Before the belay at the first rap anchor, layback the much steeper #4 and #5 Camalot sized crack (5.10-, 35m).
Pitch two is #4, #5, and #6-sized. Look for a fabulous escape out right, then back left to the second rappel anchors (5.10, 15m).
Pitch three is the crux with a long layback to where the corner ends. The crux is the delicate move to get into the wide crack. It is protected by two bolts and three #6 Friends. There is no ledge for two, so just lower off the final two bolt anchor back to the second belay (5.10+, 20m).
The fourth pitch is too rotten to be worth a five mile hike.
Protection One 70 meter rope is enough.
Bring two or three #2, #3, #4, and #5 Camalots, nothing smaller. You need three #6 Friends or Camalots for the third pitch.
Location Hmm...Fresh Meat! is in a dihedral that faces left. It can't be seen at all until your about there.
Pitch one crux.
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch one crux.
Photo by Mike Carr.
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch three.
Photo by Mike Carr.
Tom Carr leads.
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch two traverse.
Photo by Tom Carr.
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First ascent. Oct. 1990. Me on pitch 2, Strappo be...
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Strappo climbing pitch 2.
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First ascent. Oct 1990. Me on pitch 2, Strappo bel...
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| Comments on Hmm! Fresh Meat! |
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By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Dec 29, 2011
| Thanks for posting this up, Ken! |
By Jim Amidon
Feb 27, 2012
| It's now out, no more as Mike called it "Secret Crack". I was with you guys the weekend you drilled in the new bolts on P1, Ken.
I'll never forget Mike's description of the approach, "it's only an hour and a half".
3.5 hours later through some very wild country and terrain we arrived at the base.
I think we all climbed P1 that weekend, my wife Julie, you, and Mike.... |
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jan 3, 2013
| The cat's out of the bag now.... The dihedral looks beautiful and intimidating but climbs really well!
First ascent: October 1990. Strappo led pitch 1, I led pitch 2, which seemed the best pitch, we were expecting grueling wideness but kept finding sneaky forays out onto the face. Superb!
Looks like broke down our pitches a bit differently. We did a shortish first pitch (to the little ledge), then the second pitch was longer than described here.
We had to return, re-lead so Strappo could lead the pitch 3. This was more traditional fist-offwidth terrain, as I recall. The rock deteriorated higher, so we called it good. |
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jan 3, 2013
| Oh, we actually named the crag "The Rotundity" for the bulbousness it displays, bulging everywhere. |
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