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The Rotundity
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Hmm! Fresh Meat! T 

Hmm! Fresh Meat! 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, October 1990
Season: Summer, shade until early afternoon
Page Views: 1,246
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 29, 2011

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First ascent. Oct 1990. Me on pitch 2, Strappo bel...

Beta 

Mike Carr found this amazing route and brought his brother Tom and me in for a look. Thanks, Mike!

We didn't know who put the route up. Bjorn discovered who did it for us in an old Rock & Ice with a picture of Strappo and Crusher sending.

Pitch one starts with #2 and #3 Camalot-sized jams. Before the belay at the first rap anchor, layback the much steeper #4 and #5 Camalot sized crack (5.10-, 35m).

Pitch two is #4, #5, and #6-sized. Look for a fabulous escape out right, then back left to the second rappel anchors (5.10, 15m).

Pitch three is the crux with a long layback to where the corner ends. The crux is the delicate move to get into the wide crack. It is protected by two bolts and three #6 Friends. There is no ledge for two, so just lower off the final two bolt anchor back to the second belay (5.10+, 20m).

The fourth pitch is too rotten to be worth a five mile hike.

Protection 

One 70 meter rope is enough.

Bring two or three #2, #3, #4, and #5 Camalots, nothing smaller. You need three #6 Friends or Camalots for the third pitch.

Location 

Hmm...Fresh Meat! is in a dihedral that faces left. It can't be seen at all until your about there.


Photos of Hmm! Fresh Meat! Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch one crux.
Pitch one crux.
First ascent. Oct. 1990. Me on pitch 2, Strappo belaying. Photo by Michelle Bauer (or was it Mrs. Strappo back then...?).
First ascent. Oct. 1990. Me on pitch 2, Strappo be...
Pitch one crux. <br /> <br />Photo by Mike Carr.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch one crux.

Photo by Mike Carr.
Pitch two traverse. <br /> <br />Photo by Tom Carr.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch two traverse.

Photo by Tom Carr.
HMM! FRESH MEAT! <br />Photo by Mike Carr (2009). <br /> <br />Tom Carr is at the lower-off.  The rock above is really sharp, rotten, and difficult.  <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: HMM! FRESH MEAT!
Photo by Mike Carr (2009).

Tom C...
Strappo climbing pitch 2.
Strappo climbing pitch 2.
Pitch three. <br /> <br />Photo by Mike Carr. <br /> <br />Tom Carr leads.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch three.

Photo by Mike Carr.

Tom Carr leads.

Comments on Hmm! Fresh Meat! Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 29, 2011

Thanks for posting this up, Ken!
By Jim Amidon
Feb 27, 2012

It's now out, no more as Mike called it "Secret Crack". I was with you guys the weekend you drilled in the new bolts on P1, Ken.

I'll never forget Mike's description of the approach, "it's only an hour and a half".

3.5 hours later through some very wild country and terrain we arrived at the base.

I think we all climbed P1 that weekend, my wife Julie, you, and Mike....
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jan 3, 2013

The cat's out of the bag now.... The dihedral looks beautiful and intimidating but climbs really well!

First ascent: October 1990. Strappo led pitch 1, I led pitch 2, which seemed the best pitch, we were expecting grueling wideness but kept finding sneaky forays out onto the face. Superb!

Looks like broke down our pitches a bit differently. We did a shortish first pitch (to the little ledge), then the second pitch was longer than described here.

We had to return, re-lead so Strappo could lead the pitch 3. This was more traditional fist-offwidth terrain, as I recall. The rock deteriorated higher, so we called it good.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jan 3, 2013

Oh, we actually named the crag "The Rotundity" for the bulbousness it displays, bulging everywhere.