Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 O'Clock Shadow 
Agatha Christie (Direct) 
Air Monsters 
Billionaire Boys Club 
Close Shave 
Edge of Da-light, The 
Genevive 
Get Low 
Gladiator 
Hai Karate 
Histoplasmosis 
Killer Whale 
Nang 
Noodler 
Rocket Science 
Skin Bracer 
Slippery When Wet 
Thumbs Up 
Tree Monsters 
Writer's Cramp 

Histoplasmosis 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Steiger, Gary Hervert , Chip Chace, John Sherman
Page Views: 3,315
Submitted By: joshf on Nov 17, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Greg sending after getting bucked off once. This ...

Description 

Long fun climb with good protection and a bolt for your sanity near the top. Fairly sustained the whole way up.


Location 

Middle of north fin just downhill of genevive and rocket science (painful looking 5.13's)


Protection 

Pretty full rack, the gear gets thin at the top, 4 or so quickdraws for the bolts and drag. Make an anchor up top



Comments on Histoplasmosis Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2011
By dcohn
Apr 26, 2008

There are chains on top of this climb so making a (gear) anchor is optional.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 27, 2008

Hey Dcohn can you get to the ground with a sixty meter rope?

By dcohn
Apr 28, 2008

Not unless it is a REALLY long 60 meter rope.

By John Steiger
May 24, 2008

I sort of remember this, because at the time (1983) the local climbers were just getting into the exciting realm of 5.12 (or so we thought). Anyway, this first went free in two pitches, the first led by Gary Hervert -- one of Tucson's best early (McKewen-Baker era) climbers -- and the second led by Chip Chace -- who lived in Tucson for a short while but left quite a trail of hard, impressive ascents, particularly in the Dragoons. All I did was eliminate the hanging belay. Also, I think I was with John Sherman that day, not Smitty.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
May 25, 2008

I changed the people in the FA, i noted the EFR guide which has smitty in the FA. Thanks for the corrections John.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 25, 2008

Oh sure blame EFR and SQII! You might want to check again there Josh! SQII page 167 14. Hist.....(JS,JSh,83) Not sure why I didn't note the FA's of the original 2 pitches. You see what how easy it is for someone to use me as their scapegoat? Ha, but I am on to you Josh! Just kidding brother.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
May 29, 2008

With the amount of routes in SQII, mistakes are inevitable efr. Besides, how can i ever forgive myself for quoting a climber without triple checking the sources!? We all know that climbers cannot be trusted!

By Bladrey Chan
Oct 13, 2008

we were able to TR this w/ a 70m off the chains. Fantastically amazing route - looking forward to the redpoint

By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 14, 2008

70 meter definitely reaches the ground.

By Brian Weinstein
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This is by far one of the best pitches I've done on Lemmon. It's worth noting that the last 20 feet is run out 10- climbing to the top. Superb movement.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 26, 2009

Beg to differ on the last 20 feet being run out. I found good pro to the top.

By Brian Weinstein
Dec 15, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Eric- I recall the line eating stoppers and cams before the bolts. After pulling the crux (bolt-protected...this route must have gone free on gear only?) I ended up on a little shelf and placed a good .4 BD and shot up right. From the shelf it looks like one can choose a variety of 20-foot exits. The way I took out right was not protected. Maybe heading straight up is the better protected option. Either way, a classic pitch.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 15, 2009

Totally classic Brian. I know there is another piece between the one you mention and the top just not sure what it is, but it was good. Jesse Schultz might remember as it was his second trad route ever and I am pretty sure he found it too.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

classic!! an amazingly fun climb!!

stoppers and doubles through blue camalot worked well for me. above the bolts, if you trend up and slightly right (you will end up 4' to the right of the anchors), you should cross at least three solid placements. (spoiler alert) this included a yellow camalot, a yellow alien, and a #3 ballnut.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 27, 2011

A bomber large nut, then .75 and #1 BDs go in past the bulge, straight-in placements (ie perpendicular to the rock) but about as bomber as straight-in placements can be..

edit to comment above: Geir is a passive-pro master so unless u are likewise, you might consider bringing more cams...(.75s seem to fit in everywhere on this route)