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South/Southeast (Right) Face
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B.F.G., The 
Flotsam & Jetsam 
Golden Stairs 


YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric F Rhicard, Guy Agee '03
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 18, 2008
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Claudia in the thick of the route's crux bulge.
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>


Start up from a small platform in the bushes through some slightly chossy rock and over a couple of bulges. The bulge at the third bolt is a bit awkward. Above that bulge, rest up before heading into the steep terrain. Things get steeper and bit more interesting but the jugs are big up to the fifth bolt.

The crux comes after as you figure out how to surmount the bulge with a mantle-esque move. Once up past the bulge, small pockets on the face lead past a the sharp "tooth" jug and the last bolt. Finish up on decent but not stellar pockets to the top.

The climbing is fun and the crux move is balancy yet pretty powerful at the same time.


This is the right-most route on the south face of the tower.


8 bolts to bolted anchor with rap rings.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 18, 2008

FA EFR, Guy Agee '03