|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Ladd on Jul 11, 2007 with updates from Chris Petty|
|Comments on Hippie Dreams||Add Comment|
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By Thee Baum
Apr 14, 2016
This route is certainly one of the most climbed routes at Summersville. It's a lot of fun, especially for new leaders like me (since this was my 2nd lead), and provides awesome views of the lake.
Due to it's popularity there are two considerations
1- Get here early, or you will most likely end up waiting 30min+ to climb it, this thing gets insanely busy
2)The holds are polished, I think the grading is accurate, but don't rely on friction here too much.
All in all It's a good warmup for you guys moving on down to the 5.10s and a good confidence builder for the new climbers.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 14, 2016
" if you're climbing this, get it done, enjoy it, and get out of the way. Some groups will setup hammocks and top rope on this route and tie it up for hours, which sucks when you have newish climbers who just hiked 4mi to climb. This crag is for everyone not just your youth group to use for 5 hours."
I agree except for one point: It's maybe 2 miles, not 4. I've made the hike in well under an hour before. Did you tactfully approach the group? What was their response? Did you ask if you could pull their rope for a quick lead and follow then hang it right back up? It sucks that people have no outdoor etiquette and think that a rope hanging from anchors designates ownership of that route. But this is the world we live in now. Your choices are as follows:
A: Get aggro, pull the rope, then hang it back up when you're done. Or not.
B: Ask if you can squeeze in really quickly, and hang their rope up when you're done.
C: Do a different route. This is the norm at Tattoo Wall and Orange Oswald. You can expect this any weekend of the year when the weather is decent. Use it as motivation to get stronger and bolder and skip the lower graded warmups.
D: Plug gear. There is a 5.6 corner right next to that route that no one ever climbs because it's a lone gear line in a sea of bolts. It's as good or better than Hippie Dreams and quite well protected. Same with the 5.9 dihedral down the hill- only it has a couple bolts down low.
As much as it sucks, if you come to expect this sort of behavior, you'll either get out earlier, or climb harder, or both.