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Unsorted Routes:

Hip to Toe 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, 2008?
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on May 24, 2012

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Stemming, stemming, and more stemming. Photo by Da...

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The name says it all. This route is the advanced version of Double Trouble and features sustained, semi-monotonous stem-work from bottom to top. Hip to Toe is another neglected classic that deserves far more attention than it gets. (likely due to the gear) If you're dialed in on the TC friction and stemming, the grade will feel right on, otherwise, it'll be doubly desperate. Either way expect more steep, classic climbing on bomber (albeit thin) gear from bottom to top.

Location 

In between U1 and Gold Rush. Look for a twin-crack stem box with two cracks about a foot apart.

Protection 

I brought 3x yellow TCUs, 7x blue TCUs, 5x Purple TCUs, 3x Gray TCUs and used them all. If you're bold, you could definitely do with less.


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