Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nursing Home
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel of Mercy 
Aricept 
Depends 
Devil in Disguise 
Digital Stimulation 
Elder Abuse 
Failure To Thrive 
Freak Brothers 
Grampa's Day Out 
Hip Replacement 
Lost Dentures 
Sponge Bath 
Sundowning 

Hip Replacement 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Kent Lugbill
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 957
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 8, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Irina Overeem starting the crux. The first bolt i...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the the same flake for Lost Dentures. Stick clip the first bolt and reach right to a small layaway. Crank to a good bucket and then follow the bolts to the anchor.


Protection 

Three bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Hip Replacement Slideshow Add Photo
Irina Overeem latching the finishing jug.
Irina Overeem latching the finishing jug.
Near the top, the crux is at the first bolt.
Near the top, the crux is at the first bolt.
Comments on Hip Replacement Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The first move of this climb is interesting but the rest not too exciting. If you had a pad you could do this as a boulder problem, since the crux isn't that high. The first move is burly, requiring a powerful powerful shoulder to push off the left flake to get the left-facing incut with the right hand. (I don't recommend trying the intermediates.) Being taller helps. From here you can lock off and clip. Then you reach up (I crossed over with the left) to the right to a big jug and the climb is done.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2006

When first led by Bob, the big jug did not exist. A 2 foot high detached column sat on the jug. After we realized it was loose, we pushed it off to avoid an accident.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Definitely bring the stick clip for this one unless you're a solid 5.11 leader. The crux sequence requires some precise body position while the pump meter is ticking. My partners and I all did the final move to the jug as a dyno with the left hand crossing over. After that, it's an easy ramble to the anchor shared with Lost Dentures.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Height or arm-length dependent. A reach followed by a scrunch problem. You have to make a semi-hard move to clip the first bolt, so in reality, you might as well be bouldering the start. And that's pretty safe- the point is to get a spot at the beginning.
This route is 37 feet long including the top-out to the anchors.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Sep 16, 2007

At the request of a climber, I have equipped Hip Replacement with its own set of anchors. This will eliminate rope abrasion while lowering or top roping.

By djoseph
Oct 9, 2007

I agree with Ron's assessment, above. This felt like a fun, interesting V1/V2 boulder problem (easier for tall folks) followed by a short bit of 5.8 climbing. Recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and spotters for the first bolt.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I guess I could call this 10+, but I thought the opening sequence up to the jug above the first bolt was trickier than anything on Early Bird Special, across the street.

I up and downclimbed the opening section 5 or 6 times before I found beta that worked for me without having to lunge through it, and then it was still hard. It is an interesting boulder problem, but the rest of the route left much to be desired.

By mrbiscoop
Jul 19, 2013

This is basically a V something or other boulder problem with 5.7 climbing to the anchors. Not really worth the shoulder wrenching 1st moves.