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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Highway 61 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Brad Gilbert, Scott Woodruff, 1974
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 17, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start: Climb Positively Fourth Street or Lunar Ave.

P1. From the top of your approach climb, move right around a large blank wall, then up a short dihedral. Make an exciting hand traverse into the large corner. Head up the corner to the trees and belay at one in the middle, slightly left of the corner. With a 60m, can be combined with the approach pitch. 5.8 or 5.9

P2. Many thin cracks go up the steep face. Choose the easiest looking and crank through the low crux on tiny cams right above the rotten band. Continue up easing thin cracks for a total of 80'. Belay on a large ledge Below the huge overhanging crack. (can walk off from here). 5.8+

P3. Place some #2 and#3 cams and crank the overhanging crack. Continue up 5.8 dihedral with good hands and pro to the top, 70'. 5.10a


Protection 

This route requires some creative protection and a few thin pieces, but can be protected well enough to be safe. The lack of an S rating presumes that the leader carries some small pieces and is skillful at placing them.



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