Highway 61 Revisited 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 11 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on May 17, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo.
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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:
North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.
South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.
P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).
P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).
P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).
P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).
P5: The 2nd Ear. This pitch does have some bird shit on it. Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).
From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of Journey Home (~50', 5.7). The original finish follows Journey Home to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up Twisted.
Location Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of The Scenic Cruise. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.
Protection - (1) Good set of Stoppers
- (2) Green Alien - #3 Camalot
- (1) #4 & #5 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Photo showing belays and route. The roof on P1 is ...
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Traverse into 1st Ear.
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Excellent crack climbing up into the wider 1st Ear...
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Wyatt starting across the traverse to Journey Home...
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| Comments on Highway 61 Revisited |
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By Andy F
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10+
| This route was awesome! Eric and I thought it deserved to be posted on Mnt project, so it might get more traffic.. the second pitch is kinda a pile, but if you have climbed Journey Home and/or Scenic Cruise, you will love this route. DO IT!!! |
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 6, 2011
| There is bird shit on P5, but it's not the hardest climbing and protects well. The crux is shit-free. Found the ear on P4 to be more strenuous, it's kinda wide. Linking this into Journey Home was a super Black day of 5.10. |
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| Combine this with Journey Home and you get a route that only the Black can deliver. There is a serious amount of 5.10 climbing on the second ear. What a satisfying outing. The two routes combined created a 4 star outing for my brother and me. Pulling out of the second ear had one move that felt more like 5.11 to me. There was a big move from a jug undercling that is a little height dependent. There wasn't any slippery poop when we climbed it like 5 years ago. I would love to climb this again. |
By Jim Donini
May 26, 2012
| This climb is classic. With a little more traffic and a teeny bit of bird shit removal from the second ear, it would get a four star rating.
Seven pitches of continuous 9+/10 climbing with the second ear coming in at 11-, a little more continuous than the Scenic Cruise but not quite as classic- but close!
Don't forget to move left before you get too high on the second ear - consider this 11- and you won't be surprised.
Don't let the appearance at the start put you off, it cleans up quickly. By the way, the topo is wrong - the start is in a left-facing, not a right-facing, corner.
Did not use a #5 Camalot until the 5.9 OW on the Journey Home, the First Ear protects with a #4. You don't need two green Aliens, any smaller stuff will do. |
By sherena
Jun 21, 2012
| Kick ass classic climb. Sustained 5.10 climbing. Hrdly noticable bird shit as of May 27, 2012. Obvious route finding. Standard rack plus (1) #4 and #5. |
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