Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:
North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.
South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.
P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).
P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).
P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).
P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).
P5: The 2nd Ear. This pitch does have some bird shit on it. Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).
From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of Journey Home (~50', 5.7). The original finish follows Journey Home to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up Twisted.
Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of The Scenic Cruise. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.
- (1) Good set of Stoppers - (2) Green Alien - #3 Camalot - (1) #4 & #5 Camalot.
By Andy F From: Fort Collins, CO May 19, 2011 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+E3 5b
This route was awesome! Eric and I thought it deserved to be posted on Mnt project, so it might get more traffic.. the second pitch is kinda a pile, but if you have climbed Journey Home and/or Scenic Cruise, you will love this route. DO IT!!!
There is bird shit on P5, but it's not the hardest climbing and protects well. The crux is shit-free. Found the ear on P4 to be more strenuous, it's kinda wide. Linking this into Journey Home was a super Black day of 5.10.
Combine this with Journey Home and you get a route that only the Black can deliver. There is a serious amount of 5.10 climbing on the second ear. What a satisfying outing. The two routes combined created a 4 star outing for my brother and me. Pulling out of the second ear had one move that felt more like 5.11 to me. There was a big move from a jug undercling that is a little height dependent. There wasn't any slippery poop when we climbed it like 5 years ago. I would love to climb this again.
This climb is classic. With a little more traffic and a teeny bit of bird shit removal from the second ear, it would get a four star rating. Seven pitches of continuous 9+/10 climbing with the second ear coming in at 11-, a little more continuous than the Scenic Cruise but not quite as classic- but close! Don't forget to move left before you get too high on the second ear - consider this 11- and you won't be surprised. Don't let the appearance at the start put you off, it cleans up quickly. By the way, the topo is wrong - the start is in a left-facing, not a right-facing, corner. Did not use a #5 Camalot until the 5.9 OW on the Journey Home, the First Ear protects with a #4. You don't need two green Aliens, any smaller stuff will do.
Kick ass classic climb. Sustained 5.10 climbing. Hrdly noticable bird shit as of May 27, 2012. Obvious route finding. Standard rack plus (1) #4 and #5.
By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Sep 19, 2013 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
The bird shit is about a 3 out 10 on the crap-o-meter on P5. Nothing to be concerned with. I thought this route was more sustained and physical than Scenic Cruise! The ear on P4 is slightly committing but easier than it looks. A #5 halfway out the ear will calm the nerves. P2 is probably closer to 5.8-9 and 215 ft long. I ended up doing some harder moves with 30 ft runouts to avoid the bad rock. We didn't place any RPs, but a couple small TCUs did get used.
When I first did this (early-'90s), the 2nd ear was waaaaay filled with bird crap and dead birds and even live birds slithering away from my finger tips as I jammed through. Glad to hear it's cleaner now.