The route lies just right of the obvious weakness ...
Along Highway 14, the northern of two high-country passes which cross the Big Horn Mountains east-to-west, are exposed sections of Big Horn Dolomite that has weathered over the eons into surreal spires. The rock is highly featured, but is crumbly and requires caution. Most of the spires offer relatively easy free-climbs to their summits, but protection is often scarce or untrustworthy. However, the pinnacles are aesthetic and should be appealing to all those tower junkies out there.
This is a prime summer venue, as the towers lie between 9000'-9500' and remain cool during the heat of the summer. However, thunderstorms are a common occurrence up here, so be prepared! The principle concern is the clay composition of the dirt roads accessing the outcroppings. When wet, these roads become treacherously slick...avoid this area if it's rained recently or is forecasted to.
4WD roads (generally passable for most vehicles) pass within close proximity to most of these outcroppings, making approaches minimal. The setting is gorgeous--rolling high-mountain meadows with nobody around. Ultimately, only a perverse few will be attracted to these spires, their redeeming quality lies not in worthwhile climbing, but in the ambiance and adventure to be enjoyed up here in another slice of Wyoming's high lonesome... Star ratings for these climbs are relative to this area only! They're all choss, but certain ones will appeal to choss connoisseurs more than others...enjoy!
Highway 14 is a major, year-round highway running across the northern Big Horns between the tiny towns of Dayton (east side) and Shell (west side). The different pinnacle groups are found along various Forest Service dirt roads branching off of Highway 14. Specific approach directions will be listed in each area overview.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Highway 14 Pinnacles:
The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WY