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DescriptionAlong Highway 14, the northern of two high-country passes which cross the Big Horn Mountains east-to-west, are exposed sections of Big Horn Dolomite that has weathered over the eons into surreal spires. The rock is highly featured, but is crumbly and requires caution. Most of the spires offer relatively easy free-climbs to their summits, but protection is often scarce or untrustworthy. However, the pinnacles are aesthetic and should be appealing to all those tower junkies out there. Getting ThereHighway 14 is a major, year-round highway running across the northern Big Horns between the tiny towns of Dayton (east side) and Shell (west side). The different pinnacle groups are found along various Forest Service dirt roads branching off of Highway 14. Specific approach directions will be listed in each area overview. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Highway 14 Pinnacles:
Honey Bear 5.8 PG13 Sport, 70 feet Bear Rocks
Stout Wanker 5.8 C1 Trad, Aid, 40 feet Coyote Rocks
Superpecker 5.8+ Trad, 50 feet Coyote Rocks
Sheepshagger Spire 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 60 feet Coyote Rocks
Ursus Major 5.10a PG13 Trad, 80 feet Bear Rocks
Dirty Hippie--Not Worth Tie-Dying For 5.10d Sport, 40 feet Road 10 Rocks
Featured Route For Highway 14 Pinnacles
Stout Wanker 5.8 C1 WY : Highway 14 Pinnacles : Coyote Rocks
The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY |