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Highway 14 Pinnacles
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Bear Rocks 
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Road 10 Rocks 

Highway 14 Pinnacles 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 9, 2009

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The route lies just right of the obvious weakness ...

Description 

Along Highway 14, the northern of two high-country passes which cross the Big Horn Mountains east-to-west, are exposed sections of Big Horn Dolomite that has weathered over the eons into surreal spires. The rock is highly featured, but is crumbly and requires caution. Most of the spires offer relatively easy free-climbs to their summits, but protection is often scarce or untrustworthy. However, the pinnacles are aesthetic and should be appealing to all those tower junkies out there.

This is a prime summer venue, as the towers lie between 9000'-9500' and remain cool during the heat of the summer. However, thunderstorms are a common occurrence up here, so be prepared! The principle concern is the clay composition of the dirt roads accessing the outcroppings. When wet, these roads become treacherously slick...avoid this area if it's rained recently or is forecasted to.

4WD roads (generally passable for most vehicles) pass within close proximity to most of these outcroppings, making approaches minimal. The setting is gorgeous--rolling high-mountain meadows with nobody around. Ultimately, only a perverse few will be attracted to these spires, their redeeming quality lies not in worthwhile climbing, but in the ambiance and adventure to be enjoyed up here in another slice of Wyoming's high lonesome...
Star ratings for these climbs are relative to this area only! They're all choss, but certain ones will appeal to choss connoisseurs more than others...enjoy!


Getting There 

Highway 14 is a major, year-round highway running across the northern Big Horns between the tiny towns of Dayton (east side) and Shell (west side). The different pinnacle groups are found along various Forest Service dirt roads branching off of Highway 14. Specific approach directions will be listed in each area overview.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Highway 14 Pinnacles:
Honey Bear   5.8 PG13     Sport, 70 feet   Bear Rocks
Stout Wanker   5.8 C1     Trad, Aid, 40 feet   Coyote Rocks
Superpecker    5.8+     Trad, 50 feet   Coyote Rocks
Sheepshagger Spire   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 60 feet   Coyote Rocks
Ursus Major   5.10a PG13     Trad, 80 feet   Bear Rocks
Dirty Hippie--Not Worth Tie-Dying For   5.10d     Sport, 40 feet   Road 10 Rocks
Browse More Classics in Highway 14 Pinnacles

Featured Route For Highway 14 Pinnacles
The route follows the crack splitting the face between the two summits.

Stout Wanker 5.8 C1  WY : Highway 14 Pinnacles : Coyote Rocks
The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY