Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Station 13
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Chimney T 
East Chimney Variation T 
Highly Suspicious T 
Spooky, station 13 SE arete T 
Superstition T 
Unsorted Routes:

Highly Suspicious 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch - Jason McNabb, Anthony Schwartz, Lee Terveen, Joel McKillop
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,075
Submitted By: Joel McKillop on Sep 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Jason McNabb... Highly Suspicious

Description 

This route climbs the southwest shoulder of station 13. Begin using the handcrack of Spooky, at twenty five feet gain a flake and rail to clip the first bolt. A refrigerator squeezing crux is encountered between this and the second bolt. Continue up following more bolts to a very balancy crux with a hard clip at the seventh bolt. The climbing here is exposed and unique with step throughs and side pulls! Keep on with the bolt line encountering another crux at the tenth bolt. Big moves take you to lucky number eleven... don't blow it going to the top or it will be lucky number 13.

Location 

Southwest shoulder of Station 13

Protection 

Hand size pieces for the beginning crack. Eleven bolts... bring a couple of longer runners for the last two bolts and gear placements at the bottom. Watch your rope! Lowering on an 80 meter will get you back down. Barely.


Photos of Highly Suspicious Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Terveen going for redpoint. Taken by Travis Hi...
Lee Terveen going for redpoint. Taken by Travis Hi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tasters!!! taken by Travis Hibbard
Tasters!!! taken by Travis Hibbard

Comments on Highly Suspicious Add Comment
Show which comments
By R.Walters
Sep 9, 2012

badass.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 20, 2014

Witty pose makes for a great route description. Refrigerator squeezing = compression problem?
By KyleMFSpurgeon
Apr 16, 2016

Hey, so, this says that it is a 40' (40m instead?) route with 12 bolts + pro. I feel like that is probably incorrect. Anybody have more accurate information?
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Yes it is 40m not 40'. Can barely TR with an 80m rope. There is now a set of anchors for this route, just below the summit. Also, probably harder than 13a, I don't believe it has been repeated.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Apr 18, 2016

I've corrected the height to 120', and added a warning that lowering on an 80-meter rope will (barely) get you down.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!