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Josh on Highly Caffeinated ancohrs repelling down ...
This crack system between Post Moderate
and Grape Ape
is one of the older Diablo routes.
Up easy corner to undercling/lieback left (5.9, good pro here). Continue up a more low angle shallow corner crack system with just seams (no cracks) and very little pro (5.8- don't fall) until the next blocky roofs. Turning these blocky overhangs (good pro- bigger cams) is the fun crux of the route. Reach a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel from here, or continue up the upper half of Post Moderate.
Since the lower half of the fully-bolted Post Moderate
can be climbed to reach the anchor, most traffic on Highly Caffenated
is from people toproping it these days.
Climb 5 on the beta photo. The original online guide
shows this climb.
Crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape. Starts just left of the post.
One 60m rope works. A 50m rope probably doesn't reach, but might?
1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts, micros potentially useful.
2 bolt anchor equipped for rappeling at the top.
By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008
FA by Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and Karl Kiser.