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Winter Wall
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Highly Caffenated 
Highway to Hell 
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Xibalba 

Highly Caffenated 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler, and Karl Kiser
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
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Description 

This crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape is one of the older Diablo routes.

Up easy corner to undercling/lieback left (5.9, good pro here). Continue up a more low angle shallow corner crack system with just seams (no cracks) and very little pro (5.8- don't fall) until the next blocky roofs. Turning these blocky overhangs (good pro- bigger cams) is the fun crux of the route. Reach a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel from here, or continue up the upper half of Post Moderate.

Since the lower half of the fully-bolted Post Moderate can be climbed to reach the anchor, most traffic on Highly Caffenated is from people toproping it these days.


Location 

Climb 5 on the beta photo.
The original online guide shows this climb.
Crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape. Starts just left of the post.

One 60m rope works. A 50m rope probably doesn't reach, but might?


Protection 

1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts, micros potentially useful.
2 bolt anchor equipped for rappeling at the top.



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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008

This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.

By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

FA by Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and Karl Kiser.