Highly Caffenated  5.10- PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler, and Karl Kiser Submitted By:  George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Josh on Highly Caffeinated ancohrs repelling down ...

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Description 

This crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape is one of the older Diablo routes.

Up easy corner to undercling/lieback left (5.9, good pro here). Continue up a more low angle shallow corner crack system with just seams (no cracks) and very little pro (5.8- don't fall) until the next blocky roofs. Turning these blocky overhangs (good pro- bigger cams) is the fun crux of the route. Reach a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel from here, or continue up the upper half of Post Moderate.

Since the lower half of the fully-bolted Post Moderate can be climbed to reach the anchor, most traffic on Highly Caffenated is from people toproping it these days.

Location 

Climb 5 on the beta photo.
The original online guide shows this climb.
Crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape. Starts just left of the post.

One 60m rope works. A 50m rope probably doesn't reach, but might?

Protection 

1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts, micros potentially useful.
2 bolt anchor equipped for rappeling at the top.