Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Scot Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bagpipes & Ale T,S 
Bonnie Brae S 
Chivas Regal S 
Crazy Rock T 
Haggis T 
Highlander S 
Loch Lomond S 
Loch Ness S 
Neilís not Young Anymore S 

Highlander 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave LePere, Brad Singer 5/02
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Jun 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sara at the fourth bolt of pitch 1.

Description 

This route follows the face on the right side of the southwest arete in two short pitches, ending at the anchor for Tiptonís Arete. Can also be done in one continuous pitch. Rappel in two pitches to descend the south face or one pitch to descend the west face.

P1: Start in the broken dark rock on the left side of the face. Using a variety of crack and face technique, work through the blocks and cracks to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.7) 5 bolts, 50í

P2: Head up and right to a shallow dihedral. Continue up the dihedral on small edges and smears. A second similar dihedral leads to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. This is the anchor for Tiptonís Arete, visible from the west face and accessible from the right-slanting ramp that starts at the base of the west face. (5.7) 5 bolts, 70í

Location 

Left side of the south face, just right of the arete.

Protection 

10 bolts, bolted anchors


Photos of Highlander Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Williams starting the lower section of Highlander.
Mike Williams starting the lower section of Highla...
Rapping the second pitch of Highlander.
Rapping the second pitch of Highlander.
Sara on pitch 2, just past the tricky start.
Sara on pitch 2, just past the tricky start.

Comments on Highlander Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

2 pitches?? Really??

You can do this route by scrambling up 4th class rock to a decent blocky ledge then climb to the anchors. 60m rope CAN lower you off. Heck, Bagpipes and Ale is the longer of the two routes and the better quality route as well,

Hey, Eric (Tipton).....is Neil Young your favorite dood?
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 7, 2011

2 pitches, as listed in Brad's first edition of Hidden Treasures (out of print). This suggests the FA was done in 2 pitches and therefore the route was submitted to MP as 2 pitches. Yes, as I said, a 60m will reach the ground on the west face. The double rap refers to rapping down the south face.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 17, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The following comments are from Sara Susca because she does not have an account:
there is no way in fucking hell this is 5.7, definitely not the second pitch anyway where there is spot that is so blank you would not believe it. I am also short so that does not help. I think that section is 5.10a, the rest is perhaps 5.9, and that's it.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 17, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first pitch is quite technical, I climbed straight up past the fourth bolt and would say it had a 5.9 move, going left at the fourth bolt is easier. Pitch 2 started with a kick in the pants but I must confess at bolt number 3 I was starting to doubt that I was on a 5.7 and started to look for the easier looking ground, there was a difficult move to passing this which I'd give 5.9. That being said pitch 2 is wonderful.

I've done a lot of 5.7s and this one is way up there in technical difficulty. Pitch 2 has a few natural pro opportunities, small cams up to 1.5".

We finished up Bonnie Brae.