|808 page views|
Positive holds under the roof of pitch 1
up 5.7 slab past 2 bolts to horizontals on blocky holds past small overhang crux to 2 bolt belay
up flakes to classic face climbing on blunt arete crux to another 2 bolt belay
to the left of large roofs (90'from ground) the 5.7 slab is unmistakable
gear with a few bolts
From: Keene Valley, NY
Dec 8, 2009
spectacular jug hauling on the first pitch followed by classic delicate face climbing on the second. one of the best routes at clifton. possible to break right at the first belay into witch wonder.
From: New Brunswick Canada
Mar 23, 2011
On the first pitch a small cam was used maybe 0.4 or 0.5? before the first bolt.
Also, I remember a no. 1 or 0.75 beeing used in a 5.4 section on the 2nd pitch. Aside from that I didn't need gear other than Quickdraws.
|By Matt LaBonty|
Nov 9, 2011
As Dom pointed out you can back up the runout sections on each pitch with a small cam on the first and usually a large nut on the second. But it is usually done as a sport route throughout since the two runout sections are the easiest sections on both climbs. As Ari stated, this route is spectacular! An awesome roof section with positive holds on the first pitch followed by a technical slab at the top with some great exposure