Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eagle Bluff
Select Route:
All seriousness aside  S 
Alleyway T 
Amber Waves of Grain S 
Another Bolted Face Climb S 
Attitude Adjuster T 
Bivy Route S 
Blaze of Glory S 
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 
Corner Line T 
Crankcase T,S,TR 
Delirious S 
Eagle Direct T,S 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
Easy Stuff T 
Element 115 S 
Entrance Exam S 
Happy Face S 
highlander T,S 
Longitudinal Wave S 
No Rest for the Wicked S 
Pried and Joy T,S 
Punks in the Gunks T,S 
Reckless Abandon S 
Root of Choice T 
Route Awakening S 
Slice of the Gunks T 
Talus Scout S,TR 
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 
Texas Two Step T,S 
Upside down staircase T 
Walk on the Mild Side S 
Wave Guide S 
What's In a Name? S 
Wheaties S 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Witch Wonder T 

highlander 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 10/90
Page Views: 1,189
Submitted By: matt.maine on Oct 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Positive holds under the roof of pitch 1

Your help needed to keep this crag open! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

up 5.7 slab past 2 bolts to horizontals on blocky holds past small overhang crux to 2 bolt belay
up flakes to classic face climbing on blunt arete crux to another 2 bolt belay

Location 

to the left of large roofs (90'from ground) the 5.7 slab is unmistakable

Protection 

gear with a few bolts


Comments on highlander Add Comment
Show which comments
By afh
From: Keene Valley, NY
Dec 8, 2009

spectacular jug hauling on the first pitch followed by classic delicate face climbing on the second. one of the best routes at clifton. possible to break right at the first belay into witch wonder.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Mar 23, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

On the first pitch a small cam was used maybe 0.4 or 0.5? before the first bolt.

Also, I remember a no. 1 or 0.75 beeing used in a 5.4 section on the 2nd pitch. Aside from that I didn't need gear other than Quickdraws.
By Matt LaBonty
From: Scarborough
Nov 9, 2011

As Dom pointed out you can back up the runout sections on each pitch with a small cam on the first and usually a large nut on the second. But it is usually done as a sport route throughout since the two runout sections are the easiest sections on both climbs. As Ari stated, this route is spectacular! An awesome roof section with positive holds on the first pitch followed by a technical slab at the top with some great exposure