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Highest concentration of easy multi-pitch trad?

Original Post
fromtheestuary · · North Carolina · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 60

Without using the route finder, I've got a beta question: Stateside or abroad, where is the highest concentration of "easy" multi-pitch in the already developed areas around the world? Location doesn't matter. Thank you in advance.

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

In the Northeast, it's got to be the the Gunks.

Alan Ream · · Lafayette CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,405

Red Rock Nevada is great.

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

+1 for Red Rock

tomW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 10

+1 for Red Rock

Ben Pontecorvo · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 155

The Flatirons

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Define easy? <5.8. or <5.11? Route finding, climbing grade, descent, approach?
WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN???!!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

squamish ...

;)

Kent Richards · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81

At Red Rock (NV), the cruxes on the easier routes are the approach and the descent.

cnadel · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

Lover's Leap, South Lake Tahoe, CA

pierref · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Chamonix and dolomiti (the highest in Europ)

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, that's a fair point...what exactly do you mean by "easy"? There are tons of 2-3 pitch climbs at the Gunks in the 5.4-5.8 range, but the protection is often sketchy. Red Rock would probably be the best.

Eddie Taylor · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 91

+1 for the flatirons, depending on your definition of easy. Eldorado Canyon would be pretty far up there as well. Those two combined there is around 400 multipitch routes 5.11 and under.

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236

UK

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Time of year matters as well. You thinking of a summer or winter trip?
If not summer, then I can't say about "in the world" but Red Rocks sure has a lot of it. More than you can do in a season for sure. Tough in the summer though. Hot as hell!
Flatirons tend to be slabby, and that could get a little monotonous if you only want multi-pitch. If you break it up with a lot of single pitch, then yeah, there is a lot more variety, and you have Eldo so close as to practically be considered the same crag, as it is the same town. That increases the route count by quite a bit.

But again, there is another thing to ask about. Do you really mean 'concentration' or do you mean 'count?'
Concentration = routes per unit rock. Count = total within a short drive.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

If the Northeast, agreed about The Gunks, for lots of good 5.3 through 5.8 inclusive.
Approach is short and easy, but the crowds can be maddening. I cut my trad teeth there and I have to say other than Drunkard's Delight and Broken Sling, enjoyable 5.8 and below routes tend to take good pro. Of course, make sure you have the right equipment. 5.9 and above and you might have to work harder to get in good pro, even on G-rated climbs. With so many climbs to choose from, it is not hard to bypass PG/PG-13/R rated climbs until you are ready for them.

Matt Wilson · · Vermont, USA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 316
Nick Grant wrote:In the Northeast, it's got to be the the Gunks.
Yeah but an easy climb at the gunks would be considered a difficult climb anywhere else.
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Italy. . .no more video...? It was here and play-able, It was the Dolomites & the European ( French, Austrian Swiss Etc. ) alps....YMMV

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
Michael Schneider wrote:
Hmmmm looks like single pitch sport, no?
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
jason.cre wrote: Hmmmm looks like single pitch sport, no?
I was looking for a video that showed easier, Longer, stuff but . . .
Now Im sure that you realize that there is a lot of multi pitch, in the region? .
The Rivera - An area of some hundreds of miles of coast line?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1493

&, then

mountainproject.com/v/climb…
McHull · · Catoctin Mt · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 260

Seneca

Not my pic

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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