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 ADVANCED
e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Birdie Party T 
Co-op T 
Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
MF T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Higher Stannard 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, John Stannard, 1967
Page Views: 3,964
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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The second pitch is wonderfully steep and exposed....

Description 

This route is located about 10-15' to the right of Something Interesting. It is rated 5.9-, but is a very exciting lead for 5.9. Everything is there, and the pro shows up when you need it.

P1: There are a couple of different starts. The face start to the right of the tree is probably the best: bust a few reachy thin moves on obvious crimps before you get your first gear in. Alternatively, start to the left of the tree just left of a left-leaning 2" overhanging ramp, and aim rightwards.

Make thin moves towards a thin seam about 40' up, with tough balancy moves. After the seam, traverse to the right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb this through a double overhang (tiny cam), to bolt anchors. 5.9-, 80'.

P2: Traverse right around the corner, and head up to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'. Follow easier climbing to the top, then rap the bolted line over Three Pines.


Protection 

Standard Rack, extra small cams.



Photos of Higher Stannard Slideshow Add Photo
Shirley at the thin start
Shirley at the thin start
Comments on Higher Stannard Add Comment
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By gilp
Mar 17, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great route with some of the most diverse climbing the cliff offers. Great face climbing, some run-out sections, fun moves, awesome roof, and high quality.

By JSH
Administrator
Sep 3, 2007

The first few moves that most folks use for Higher Stannard are just out my reach (5'7", -2 ape index). At some point I'll try the left hand start to see how that goes.

By - - -
May 11, 2009

Routefinding is a challenge on this one.

By SethG
Jul 1, 2011

I did the left-hand start. It has good pro. The move right off the ground is bouldery, just smear your feet. This is an outstanding pitch from start to finish, though it does wander a bit; just keep looking left and right (and up!). I would disagree that it has runouts. I thought the gear was great. The crux face moves at the early thin crack up the face come just after a perfect horizontal, but the moves are above the gear. There is great pro at each of the two roofs at the end.

By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Nov 9, 2012

big fan of this route. keeps u thinking the whole way. some thin face moves and traversing to a nice roof section. thought the crux moves were low at the bottom of the thin crack.

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun, steep face climb that wanders a bit and with PG/PG13 Pro (not R, but not G either) but excellent moves. Only real difficult pro spot was maybe 20+ ft up, above gear and at a small pin scar...I got a #00 C3 (it was decent). Perhaps I could've gotten a Peenut to go; unfortunately I left them on the ground...doh!

By Pawel
From: NJ
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

If you're unsure of where it goes, the description in Dick Williams is very precise. Gear is excellent throughout (I used all cams) but small at the roof. Don't miss P2: short but very fun traverse before heading up.

By Gunkiemike
Jun 20, 2014

If you're too short to grab the fingerholds on the left (original) start, don't hesitate to cheat a bit. There used to be a tree there (it's dead and lying downhill below you) and one could step off the tree to take the sting out of that first move. So by cheating a bit you're really just keeping the route to its original character. Don't worry about it too much; there's plenty of challenge on the face above.