|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Fernando Falomir, Chris O'Connor|
|Submitted By:||Chris O'Connor on Apr 13, 2008|
|Comments on Higher Rites||Add Comment|
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By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2008
We went up to do Vishnu and noticed this new route. This route is a junior version of routes on the Red Wall at Devil's Head. Excellent incut holds on a slightly overhanging wall. Great position. The top still has lichen and the holds are a little grainy, but it doesn't distract from this fine route. Excellent find guys. The knife-edge arete to the left looks wild (Pranja?), but there are some scary-looking flakes on it. Anybody done it?
This route and Vishnu are located on an exposed pedestal in one of the most scenic spots in the Boulder Canyon/Dream Canyon area. N Boulder Creek makes a big bend here so you can see up and down Dream Canyon as well as up Boulder Canyon towards the Narrows.
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Great climb and a pumpy warm-up for the Berlin Wall, but I am disturbed and disappointed by the bolts that are not 3/8" wedge bolts, like the bolts on "Vishnu", but 5/16" bolts with a 1/2" nut.
My guess is that these are not wedge bolts, but externally threaded 3/8" diameter sleeve bolts. If you are going to use this type of bolt, I think is best to use the 1/2" diameter ones (a 1/2" sleeve and a 3/8" diameter bolt). If they are wedge bolts, then that's really lame and dangerously weak.
If I am going to drill 3/8" diameter holes, I use a 3/8" Hilti or Fixe stainless steel wedge bolt. I usually prefer to place Powers (1/2" diameter X 2-3/4") 5 piece sleeve bolts. They stay tight unlike bolts with a nut on the end and are very strong. I stopped using the 3/8" diameter 5 piece bolts in 1995. The 5/16" bolt used in these sleeve anchors is fairly easy to break from overtightening. Once placed, they seem to work fine, but they are not as strong as the 1/2" diameter sleeve anchor with a 3/8" diameter bolt. It is very, very rare to hear about one of these 1/2" diameter sleeve bolts breaking from being tightened with a 8" or 9" wrench.