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On the FA.
This is sustained climbing up vertical wall. There are some moves in small cracks finishing at the top of the arete.
It is on the upper Krishna formation, just west of the WWW and the Berlin Wall. Either rappel in from above the Berlin wall or scramble up the gully from the creek, class 3/4. The route itself is high above the creek on an expose buttress. It's between Pranja, the arete, and Vishnu.
6 bolts and a two bolt anchor. A stick clip for the beginning or 2 inch gear. Gear could be nice for the top to join Pranja without run out.
|By Ken Leiden|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2008
We went up to do Vishnu and noticed this new route. This route is a junior version of routes on the Red Wall at Devil's Head. Excellent incut holds on a slightly overhanging wall. Great position. The top still has lichen and the holds are a little grainy, but it doesn't distract from this fine route. Excellent find guys. The knife-edge arete to the left looks wild (Pranja?), but there are some scary-looking flakes on it. Anybody done it?
This route and Vishnu are located on an exposed pedestal in one of the most scenic spots in the Boulder Canyon/Dream Canyon area. N Boulder Creek makes a big bend here so you can see up and down Dream Canyon as well as up Boulder Canyon towards the Narrows.
|By Mark Rolofson|
Apr 8, 2013
Great climb and a pumpy warm-up for the Berlin Wall, but I am disturbed and disappointed by the bolts that are not 3/8" wedge bolts, like the bolts on "Vishnu", but 5/16" bolts with a 1/2" nut.
My guess is that these are not wedge bolts, but externally threaded 3/8" diameter sleeve bolts. If you are going to use this type of bolt, I think is best to use the 1/2" diameter ones (a 1/2" sleeve and a 3/8" diameter bolt). If they are wedge bolts, then that's really lame and dangerously weak.
If I am going to drill 3/8" diameter holes, I use a 3/8" Hilti or Fixe stainless steel wedge bolt. I usually prefer to place Powers (1/2" diameter X 2-3/4") 5 piece sleeve bolts. They stay tight unlike bolts with a nut on the end and are very strong. I stopped using the 3/8" diameter 5 piece bolts in 1995. The 5/16" bolt used in these sleeve anchors is fairly easy to break from overtightening. Once placed, they seem to work fine, but they are not as strong as the 1/2" diameter sleeve anchor with a 3/8" diameter bolt. It is very, very rare to hear about one of these 1/2" diameter sleeve bolts breaking from being tightened with a 8" or 9" wrench.