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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 
Aloof Roof 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 
Command Performance 
Do or Dive 
Doan's Pills 
Excellent Adventure 
Finger Love 
High Wire 
Nuclear Crayon 
Quaker State 
Raise Hell 
Shit Hook 
Stab in the Dark 
Step and Fetch 
Wailing Wall 
Zombie Woof 

High Wire 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Matt Westlake on May 12, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Leader finishing the easy section, about to embark...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up the blocky ramp left of refrigerator crack chasm and work your way up to the wide crack angling up and left. Mostly easy but potentially runout climbing depending on what gear you bring will take you up to about level with the roof at the top of the vertical section of Golden Earring.

From here the climbing steps up in difficulty a bit. Pull up through the bulge above, following the crack up and to the left a bit through the line of least resistance. You may angle a bit left around the arete but eventually work your way back around to the right to connect up to finish with the intimidating/appealing right arching flake near the top. Follow this all the way to a landing and belay. Savor the exposure as you traverse out over nothing way off the deck.

Take care as there is a fair amount of loose and suspect rock, particularly in the upper section. Try to think of it as giving the route an "alpine" feel.

Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, breaking level with the golden earring roof. Rope drag can be a problem if done as one pitch.

Variation: Easier to exit left through the chimney and top out over step and fetch.


Location 

Back of the Amphitheater, just left of Breaking Rocks is Hard to do. Find the left angling wide crack at the start, and look way up for the undercling flake finish, left of Zombie Woof.

DESCENT:
Climb up and straight back to find the trail. Go left about 30 feet and ignore the tempting branch to the right and instead step down over a boulder to a less obvious choice that takes you to a scramble down to the golden earring rap station.

Sketchy old slings and cord around some skinny trees also provide a possible double rope rappel at the anchor area too but these never look appealing me.

Also, possible to hike right and find your way to the meat puppet crag and down via there.


Protection 

2-4 pieces of Wide gear (Camalot C4 4,5,6 size) depending on your comfort level with G/PG-13/R runout on the easier ramp start and standard rack for the remainder. Save a couple Camalot C4 2 or 3 size pieces for the upper flake section.



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