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BETA PHOTO: Leader finishing the easy section, about to embark...
Start up the blocky ramp left of refrigerator crack chasm and work your way up to the wide crack angling up and left. Mostly easy but potentially runout climbing depending on what gear you bring will take you up to about level with the roof at the top of the vertical section of Golden Earring.
From here the climbing steps up in difficulty a bit. Pull up through the bulge above, following the crack up and to the left a bit through the line of least resistance. You may angle a bit left around the arete but eventually work your way back around to the right to connect up to finish with the intimidating/appealing right arching flake near the top. Follow this all the way to a landing and belay. Savor the exposure as you traverse out over nothing way off the deck.
Take care as there is a fair amount of loose and suspect rock, particularly in the upper section. Try to think of it as giving the route an "alpine" feel.
Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, breaking level with the golden earring roof. Rope drag can be a problem if done as one pitch.
Variation: Easier to exit left through the chimney and top out over step and fetch.
Back of the Amphitheater, just left of Breaking Rocks is Hard to do. Find the left angling wide crack at the start, and look way up for the undercling flake finish, left of Zombie Woof.
Climb up and straight back to find the trail. Go left about 30 feet and ignore the tempting branch to the right and instead step down over a boulder to a less obvious choice that takes you to a scramble down to the golden earring rap station.
Sketchy old slings and cord around some skinny trees also provide a possible double rope rappel at the anchor area too but these never look appealing me.
Also, possible to hike right and find your way to the meat puppet crag and down via there.
2-4 pieces of Wide gear (Camalot C4 4,5,6 size) depending on your comfort level with G/PG-13/R runout on the easier ramp start and standard rack for the remainder. Save a couple Camalot C4 2 or 3 size pieces for the upper flake section.
By jake wiener
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Great route with excellent exposure on the second pitch, first pitch is definitely spicy without large cams, adds to the fun. There is a fairly large rock freestanding on a ledge at near the top, about 15 ft left of the slung trees, its not a bad idea to watch out for loose rock on the 2nd pitch.
By Robert Hutchins
Oct 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Very good adventure climb. Should be done more often. To descend head right to the obvious trail for a relatively quick and easy walk off. This is much faster than scrambling over to Quaker State, and you don't have to worry about rapping through the traffic of a popular route.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Apr 18, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Get on this climb, you'll love it. Do it as two pitches and share the fun with your belayer.