|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Lee Terveen|
|Season: ||Killer Early Afternoon Sun That Goes Till Dusk! a.m. shade.|
|Page Views: ||256|
|Submitted By: ||BBQ on Oct 26, 2013|
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High Times, 5.12a
Pure, Classic, Taster's Choice Sickness!
Oh my God this is the good shit! Pack your fingers into sick pockets, grab bomber crimps, and enjoy a long jaunt of high grade quality holds and fun moves that are well within your ability right up until the bomber, blonde rock turns into a beautiful, black steak of difficult moves-on gorgeous holds-that fight back with every ounce of their being.
Chock full of climbing that requires big moves and precise, technical placements that go from mellow to "AH HELL NO!" A crimpy, fitnessy finish will provide the appropriate heart breaking scenario even though the whole experience will leave you light-headed, breathless and stoked beyond imagination. Pure, pumpy euphoria with every inhale and exhale. What are you waiting for?! Tie in and feed your head!
THIS CLIMB REPRESENTS EVERYTHING THAT IS RIGHT ABOUT SPEARFISH CANYON!
Second route to the right of the arete climb known as Indecent Exposure and just to the left of Ka-Powzer! Most of the routes in this part of the crag are a no-holds-barred festival of freakish fun!
Bring a dozen quickdraws. Open anchors.