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Routes in Crosswinds
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Anchor Baby T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bends (a.k.a. Decompression Sickness), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grippin' the Cutlass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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High Tide S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Parrot Bay S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Power Structure S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Serpant's Rising S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stomping the Cleaver T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Jonathan Siegrist, July, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 885 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Jul 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
A grand tour. Scramble up to a nice ledge below a bullet panel of rock just right of 'Parrot Bay'. Stick clip the first bolt and begin with immediate difficulties that last until the fourth bolt, where the route eases off for a while. Wander up to the big ledge, clip a long sling or a double length draw on the 9th bolt (important), and fire into the crux upon the brilliant, golden upper headwall on pinches and crimps until you reach chains- enjoy the view. If not for the easy mid-section, this would be super classic.
It is possible to escape left after the 6th bolt and clip the anchor for 'Parrot Bay' for those not prepared to swim in deep water. 'Low Tide', 5.11.
It is possible to escape left after the 6th bolt and clip the anchor for 'Parrot Bay' for those not prepared to swim in deep water. 'Low Tide', 5.11.
Protection
13 draws (including one long sling or double draw for 9th bolt) to a fixed anchor. For Turbo glide, absolute zero rope drag, bring two long slings for the 8th and 9th bolts. There is a belay bolt installed on the ledge system (although it's totally mellow up there).
I suggest that the belayer remains below the ledge system so they can see the climber on the upper headwall crux- this REQUIRES A 70M ROPE!!! If you only have a 60m, the belayer must belay from the ledges, just below the beginning of the climb...regardless- TIE A KNOT in the rope as this pitch will literally exhaust an entire 60m! Awesome!!
I suggest that the belayer remains below the ledge system so they can see the climber on the upper headwall crux- this REQUIRES A 70M ROPE!!! If you only have a 60m, the belayer must belay from the ledges, just below the beginning of the climb...regardless- TIE A KNOT in the rope as this pitch will literally exhaust an entire 60m! Awesome!!
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